Madagascar Independance Day

Wednesday, 14 June 2023 (121)

Dr. Clertant had asked me last night if I would be available this morning to go with him and visit a co-worker who lost a family member. He showed me the translation on his phone. I called my tutor, Manda who was going to meet up with me this morning but he was already  in Sahanivotry. We spent the next two hours on tutoring as the Doctor was not yet ready. The lesson he had prepared was helpful in that it covered shopping and specifically for meat. We went into town and practiced at the various stores.

Afterwards, Dr. Clertant asked me into his office and mentioned there was a collection for the bereaved person. I had heard this idea of getting together some money I just didn't know who it was for or how much. He mentioned a number and I gave a bit more. Then all the staff including interns were asked in the office.  Dr. Clertant took off his hat and got serious. I don't know what he was saying or who it was about. Then Sarah handed the envelope of money over to Simonette, who looked a bit saddened. Then it was over and we all left the room. 

After some fried bread I seem to like (think fried scones but without the fluffiness) I headed up the mountain with Dobby in tow. I put her in my backpack as we crossed the river. I didn't bring my life preserver (yes, I know, against Peace Corps rules) but it just seems so embarrassing that no one has a life preserver but me. There's also the fact that the river is only two or three feet deep in parts.

It's about a 20 or 25 minute hike up to David, the carpenter's place. They had just started on building the table I had commissioned and I was able to do some work on it to help. I planned smooth some of the legs and wood pieces for it. The tools here are very plain and basic. It would be great to have just a few of the battery operated power tools I have back on the mountain. But David is an expert at doing this thing all his life. Yes, the final pieces are on the rough side but all hand made. He and other in the family speak to me as if I understand the majority of what they are saying when it is less than a minority. I do a lot of nods and appear to understand while getting one word in 10, maybe less. Spent a few hours helping and watch. Even some filming. I wish I could provide him with a few more modern tools but I'm not sure he needs it. To think how quickly and easy it would make things to have a table saw or sander. And although those items exist here - the electricity is not common - and not to be had on the mountain.

Eventually, both Dobby and myself were dozing off so we decided to leave. His son had just brought over more wood so David's wife and I started down the hill with the five very heavy lumber boards I had asked for yesterday at market. I even put a couple of the boards on my head as they do. I couldn't handle it without holding on with at least one hand but it does work. After a couple hundred of step it does a number on your neck and back.

More games with the group tonight like last night. At least it wasn't Monopoly. I never thought through the possibility that I would have to play it so much.

Droopy eyelid

Thursday, 15 June 2023 (122)

I've been out of internet credit and needed a reason to get to Antsirabe and buy it as well as more paint (grey for the shudders now) and a few other supplies like another water container for when the water stops flowing - a regular occurrence three or four times a week lately. Best to check the water flow before heading out for a shower mornings

Well, my sunburned face gave me such a reason. I had a hard time getting to sleep last night because of the heat and pain. It didn't help that I added to the problem by pealing some of the old skin off and exposing new skin that wasn't ready to peal yet. I never expected this would happen as I had been outdoors high, in the mountains for the last year and never had sunburn issues, but I do here. I have nothing in my medical kit for 3rd degree burns. A talk with Dr. Clertant and my PMO medical doctor on the phone and some burn medication would be made available at the pharmacy in Antsirabe. Unfortunately, the pharmacy was closed when I got there.

It's also interesting that our Peace Corps doctors do not want the local doctors assisting or making any recommendations. I understand, but also think it a slight to their abilities. Yet I understand that only our doctors can or should take ultimate responsibility for an American's healthcare.

Saturday, 17 June 2023 (124)

Headed towards the hillside where my friend, the carpenter, David lives. Before getting to the river, I encountered him on his bike just returning from Manadona with some wood glue he had to buy there. He expressed how it's more expensive there then Antsirabe. I had just thought of him when I was in Antsirabe on Thursday and had thought to buy him more glue. Perhaps I should have acted on that impulse. But it was a good coincidence and we preceded up the mountain. 

Spent a few hours working on the two wood planks I had brought up to smooth out the surfaces to make a couple more shelves. This was one of the five boards, cut in two I had just bought from them on Wednesday. All this improvement on the wood would be done in a minute with the proper electric table saw and sander but requires so much more labor and time to do with basic carpentry tools. He would go on and on about what we were doing or talk about the progress of the table he's building for me. I would give him my full attention and nod occasionally or acknowledge I understood when I thought I may have. The reality is that I understood maybe 3% and gathered more from the body language, the pointing, or the non-verbal cues. I believe he thinks I understand more than I do.

He tried explaining why the table wouldn't be completed until Tuesday. Something about not having the right wood or that he was waiting for a tool or something.

Recrossing the river, no one was manning the boat on this side of the river. I had been told that the river crossing is a service provided by the Fokantany (community). I noticed it was filling with water as is usual. Not sure why plugging a few holes is difficult or costly but I imagine other things are a priority. Instead, they just bail water out after every trip across or so. I figured I'd do a little bailing while Dobby and I wait. Turns out their bucket is worn, cracked and has holes in the bottom. Eventually, one of the travelers on the other side walked across the river at a point that is only knee deep. He poled the boat across for me. 

Later, on the way to town for drinks and those eggs I paid for but forgot to pick up earlier this week - I stopped at the boat crossing and gave them one of my two buckets.

More laundry done this afternoon so that all my clothes are washed before Natalie's arrival. I did corner Dr. Clertant and let him know of Natalie's surprise visit. He was smiling and probably doesn't know about the three month visitor rule. He seemed very happy she was coming. I mentioned it was only for a few days but he didn't seem to mind about the length. I mentioned I would keep the same schedule but with as little as I do, I doubt that matters.

I've been loaning my Peace Corp bike out to Francisco and he was gone overnight with it. Perhaps, I shouldn't be so giving with property that isn't mine.

For dinner I had mashed potatoes and risked cooking some sausage type meat I bought at the meat seller. I am big on meat but here not so much. Seeing the conditions it cut, sold, kept and how badly the meat sellers place looks is enough to make anyone a vegetarian.  But it was fine, especially when I cooked it well.

Interns and I

Sunday, 18 June 2023 (125)

Don't normally have breakfast but I did yesterday and today. Yesterday was oatmeal that I added chocolate drink mix to. Next time - no chocolate. Today, a couple eggs and fried potatoes.

If I don't write down the day's events I seem to forget. It isn't that the day's events are uninteresting or full. Every day brings new experiences. I just get lazy about writing.

Painting those boards I worked on up the mountain yesterday - all planed down and smooth now. I'll get these shelves up just above where I expect to put the new desk.

It's been another sunny day here in Paradise. It can be a little cold here at night and in the mornings. There are plenty of gaps in my doors and windows, and you can see sunlight coming through the ceiling . It has rained only once in the month I've been here. Not complaining. I wonder where all the moisture comes from for all the planting and farming.

Out my northern window, which is the one usually always open with a warm and sunny view, I can hear singing at the church just across the field. It is interesting that they use the church. Half of one of their long walls is completely gone. It's probably a hazard with so much structure removed. I asked my tutor about it the other day and he said they were putting in an addition. 

Saturday, 24 June 2023 (131)

Natalie left Antsirabe on a SoaTrans taxi-brusse this morning at 8am. I finished a few errands and headed back to Sahanivotry and arrived about 11am.

This is the first entry I've done the entire visit Natalie was here. I'm not likely to put it on the web blog as it would give away the idea that I had family visit when the Peace Corps has a rule against that for the first three months we're at site.

We spent the first day at Antsirabe where I picked her up from the SoaTrans from Tana. Had a nice day exploring the "Tsina Sabotse" (Saturday Market) and ate at some nice little restaurants. Stayed at the Green Park Hotel this first night and her last.

Three days were spent in Sahanivotry where she met my supervisor, Dr Clertant, my co-workers (we played Monopoly and lost - they are getting better at this - though I doubt the game will survive another month of their hard handling of it). Also met my tutor "Manda" and we went out to his sister's house to do a sanitation presentation. "They can understand you," was the complement he gave me. 

My carpenter friend "David" came by to get my help in bringing down the table he built which was now finished. Up the mountain and back with a meter by two meter table. Crossing the river was a little challenging. I saw that they had a different probably more used bucket to bail the boat with. Looks like someone liked the newer bucket and replaced it with something less. Am I to take that as a warning to be careful with my gifts?

Back to Antsirabe on Thursday for just a day trip. With Natalie's help, I was able to bring back more paint and a computer case. It turns out that the computer people strip it all down bare bones. I had to ask for a power cord even though I bought a 500watt power supply. And the case came without a fan, screws or little rubber case feet. Had to duct tape the fan in the case and scavenge a few screws off the motherboard and case in order to attach the motherboard inside the case. Turning it on did not get me the desired effect so I'll have to try and troubleshoot the problem(s).

It's discouraging but at least Natalie brought me a large computer monitor if I end up trying to go back to editing with the laptop.

Friday we headed back to Antsirabe with Dobby for her third and fourth shots including Rabies. Now I need to wait three weeks, have a blood draw and submit the results for paperwork that could take up to three months to get back that would allow me to take her to America.

We were going to go to the fancy I'nsolite restaurant but I was very tired and we ate at the Green Park restaurant instead.

Sunday, 25 June 2023 (132)

Out my closest window is music from my neighbors as well as loud music from the community. Out my other window is church music from the church across the field. It's usually about a three hour service. No one has a problem here blasting their music for all to hear. No one seems to care or at least I do not notice anyone saying anything.

Now their blaring a speaker over the PA. 

It is Independence Day weekend so I understand. It's like a market day in terms of the amount of people out and about. They have built not motor driven carnival rides. And there will be loud music and parting well into the night if yesterday was any indicator.

I hope to get out and take pictures and video of the activities in the community today. I've been wanting to spend some of every Sunday doing so but have not as yet. In fact, I'm hesitant to just go out my door as there are a dozen family members of at least one if not more pregnant women here waiting to deliver their babies. I get stared at enough everywhere I go. It's nice not to have all my actions here at home to also be under scrutiny. It is understandable to realize that the rooms we live our lives here are so small and contained that being outside is preferable. Yet my place is more than twice the size of my co-workers. 

Thousands turned up for the festivities

Madagascar Independence Day - Monday, 26 June 2023 (133)

Both the Doctor and Mayor asked me to attend the festivities this morning out on the soccer field out by the school. I got to sit om the stand with the dignitaries and got introduced as the Peace Corp Volunteer. Fortunately, I did not have to say anything.

About 10am there about a thousand people and kids. In an hour there would be close to four or five thousand I was told.  I have no idea where all these kids could have come from nor why a small village like Sahanivotry would put host such a large Independence Day party.

Doctor Clertant expressed some interest in me taking pictures. So I went out into the hordes of kids and got plenty of photos and GoPro video. No one here in Madagascar seems to mind me taking photos or video. I don't think they ever see them and likely don't have the same hangups that Americans have of seeing themselves online or dressed good or bad. I try to keep my picture taking to public areas and am always worried when I am just taking pictures of children.

I ended up keeping a couple hundred photos and about an hour of video. Shared copies with the doctor and the Mayor hoping they will see my ability to do more of the same. I was thinking just the other day that the staff here could use new photos that are currently displayed at the CSB.

The ceremony was mostly just the main spokesperson doing introductions of VIPs and the misc. comments as the children's groups all formed up in what I expect was their schools and age groups. Then the Mayor Gave a 10 minute talk. Then every child got to march around in front of the grandstand. It took a while and then more time was taken to enjoy a couple musical groups of adults and children. By then, most of the crowd had dissipated including myself.

There was a sort of mini-market leading away from the parade grounds - mostly people selling food. There was also a human powered Ferris wheel and merry go round.

I noticed the night belonged to those a bit inebriated as I ventured out to the town main street near sunset. Time to get back and stay inside. Of course the music blared into the night. Surprisingly, the music got mellower as the night wore on.

Tuesday, 27 June 2023 (134)

Spent the morning at the CSB as instructed. The doctor was in Antsirabe until this afternoon. 

I find myself in so many conversations where everyone else does the talking and I must look like I know what is being said but I catch only a few words here or there. They continue to talk. I continue to nod. One such discussion occurred today when I the doctor was trying to convey something about the party or meal we'd all have together. I gave one of the intern's 30,000ar to buy meat. I'm not sure that was expected of me or not but I'm sure we all needed to contribute. I had thought this would occur the night before they left which is this Friday but then the doctor is planning to be out of town for a few days.

I was shocked when the interns turned up at my door this evening and insisted cooking on my gas stove, use my cookware, start asking for more food items for the dinner and I realized the party was for tonight and I was hosting it. Another table and chairs was brought in. Fortunately, they provided some plates and utensils. Ended up with 10 or 12. The meat was burnt, the noodles were the cheap pasty kind, and nothing else was looking very delicious including the standard hard and dry Sahanivotry bread. But we all shared a meal together.

Wednesday, 28 June 2023 (135)

Manda, the tutor stopped by at his usual 9am and we talked only about my plan to interview Malagasy people and use him as my translator for the editing. I tried convincing him that this would be great tutoring because he'd be teaching me the culture and helping me to integrate better than if I had to do it on my own.

As I see it, more people could see these videos that my sharing Madagascar culture for the rest of my days. This also supplies the Peace Corps with two out of the three goals we exist. Learn of others cultures and share of ours. I'd prefer if this was my only work here instead of the health component.

Back to painting this afternoon as I got the two back shudders of my co-workers done as well as three of the other doors of our building. 

Thursday, 29 June 2023 (136)

After 4 days, we finally got our water back. Took a shower and refilled all my backup water bottles. I was also hoping to do my laundry but the water stopped again early this afternoon. 

Instead of hanging around the CSB on the typical slow Thursday - I went back to painting with my last can of gray paint. Did the basketball stand and one of the two Kabones (that the outdoors WC or bathroom) and scrubbed out the one shower we all share and painted that door. Ran out of paint again. Time for another trip to Antsirabe tomorrow.

For the last two days, one of the interns has been asking me to either sell him my phone or give him one of mine. I have a backup smartphone (somewhat) I mostly use just for emergencies and for "Whereabouts" to let Peace Corps know if I'm overnighting away from my site. I also keep a different phone plan (Telma vs Orange) on it, just in case, but hardly use it at all.

It's been confusing as he seems to be trying to give me 60,000 in money but I don't know how much, or for how long he would continue to pay me or if that is even his plan. I had heard many other people talk about these kinds of asks. The people here obviously think we have a lot of money, and we do, relative to them, but I want to spend it in other ways - like painting or providing a few helpful addons or necessities. The Peace Corps has always warned me about not being to generous and I understand, but hope I can do so in ways that don't attract attention or make it appear like I can fund their projects or buy them things.

It is hard to say no but I don't have a couple of hundred thousand ariary for a phone for someone. It changes how I view the person a bit knowing that he views me as a means to get something.