Thursday, June 29, 2023

Madagascar Independance Day




Wednesday, 14 June 2023 (121)

Dr. Clertant had asked me last night if I would be available this morning to go with him and visit a co-worker who lost a family member. He showed me the translation on his phone. I called my tutor, Manda who was going to meet up with me this morning but he was already  in Sahanivotry. We spent the next two hours on tutoring as the Doctor was not yet ready. The lesson he had prepared was helpful in that it covered shopping and specifically for meat. We went into town and practiced at the various stores.

Afterwards, Dr. Clertant asked me into his office and mentioned there was a collection for the bereaved person. I had heard this idea of getting together some money I just didn't know who it was for or how much. He mentioned a number and I gave a bit more. Then all the staff including interns were asked in the office.  Dr. Clertant took off his hat and got serious. I don't know what he was saying or who it was about. Then Sarah handed the envelope of money over to Simonette, who looked a bit saddened. Then it was over and we all left the room. 

After some fried bread I seem to like (think fried scones but without the fluffiness) I headed up the mountain with Dobby in tow. I put her in my backpack as we crossed the river. I didn't bring my life preserver (yes, I know, against Peace Corps rules) but it just seems so embarrassing that no one has a life preserver but me. There's also the fact that the river is only two or three feet deep in parts.

It's about a 20 or 25 minute hike up to David, the carpenter's place. They had just started on building the table I had commissioned and I was able to do some work on it to help. I planned smooth some of the legs and wood pieces for it. The tools here are very plain and basic. It would be great to have just a few of the battery operated power tools I have back on the mountain. But David is an expert at doing this thing all his life. Yes, the final pieces are on the rough side but all hand made. He and other in the family speak to me as if I understand the majority of what they are saying when it is less than a minority. I do a lot of nods and appear to understand while getting one word in 10, maybe less. Spent a few hours helping and watch. Even some filming. I wish I could provide him with a few more modern tools but I'm not sure he needs it. To think how quickly and easy it would make things to have a table saw or sander. And although those items exist here - the electricity is not common - and not to be had on the mountain.

Eventually, both Dobby and myself were dozing off so we decided to leave. His son had just brought over more wood so David's wife and I started down the hill with the five very heavy lumber boards I had asked for yesterday at market. I even put a couple of the boards on my head as they do. I couldn't handle it without holding on with at least one hand but it does work. After a couple hundred of step it does a number on your neck and back.

More games with the group tonight like last night. At least it wasn't Monopoly. I never thought through the possibility that I would have to play it so much.

Droopy eyelid

Thursday, 15 June 2023 (122)

I've been out of internet credit and needed a reason to get to Antsirabe and buy it as well as more paint (grey for the shudders now) and a few other supplies like another water container for when the water stops flowing - a regular occurrence three or four times a week lately. Best to check the water flow before heading out for a shower mornings

Well, my sunburned face gave me such a reason. I had a hard time getting to sleep last night because of the heat and pain. It didn't help that I added to the problem by pealing some of the old skin off and exposing new skin that wasn't ready to peal yet. I never expected this would happen as I had been outdoors high, in the mountains for the last year and never had sunburn issues, but I do here. I have nothing in my medical kit for 3rd degree burns. A talk with Dr. Clertant and my PMO medical doctor on the phone and some burn medication would be made available at the pharmacy in Antsirabe. Unfortunately, the pharmacy was closed when I got there.

It's also interesting that our Peace Corps doctors do not want the local doctors assisting or making any recommendations. I understand, but also think it a slight to their abilities. Yet I understand that only our doctors can or should take ultimate responsibility for an American's healthcare.


Saturday, 17 June 2023 (124)

Headed towards the hillside where my friend, the carpenter, David lives. Before getting to the river, I encountered him on his bike just returning from Manadona with some wood glue he had to buy there. He expressed how it's more expensive there then Antsirabe. I had just thought of him when I was in Antsirabe on Thursday and had thought to buy him more glue. Perhaps I should have acted on that impulse. But it was a good coincidence and we preceded up the mountain. 

Spent a few hours working on the two wood planks I had brought up to smooth out the surfaces to make a couple more shelves. This was one of the five boards, cut in two I had just bought from them on Wednesday. All this improvement on the wood would be done in a minute with the proper electric table saw and sander but requires so much more labor and time to do with basic carpentry tools. He would go on and on about what we were doing or talk about the progress of the table he's building for me. I would give him my full attention and nod occasionally or acknowledge I understood when I thought I may have. The reality is that I understood maybe 3% and gathered more from the body language, the pointing, or the non-verbal cues. I believe he thinks I understand more than I do.

He tried explaining why the table wouldn't be completed until Tuesday. Something about not having the right wood or that he was waiting for a tool or something.

Recrossing the river, no one was manning the boat on this side of the river. I had been told that the river crossing is a service provided by the Fokantany (community). I noticed it was filling with water as is usual. Not sure why plugging a few holes is difficult or costly but I imagine other things are a priority. Instead, they just bail water out after every trip across or so. I figured I'd do a little bailing while Dobby and I wait. Turns out their bucket is worn, cracked and has holes in the bottom. Eventually, one of the travelers on the other side walked across the river at a point that is only knee deep. He poled the boat across for me. 

Later, on the way to town for drinks and those eggs I paid for but forgot to pick up earlier this week - I stopped at the boat crossing and gave them one of my two buckets.

More laundry done this afternoon so that all my clothes are washed before Natalie's arrival. I did corner Dr. Clertant and let him know of Natalie's surprise visit. He was smiling and probably doesn't know about the three month visitor rule. He seemed very happy she was coming. I mentioned it was only for a few days but he didn't seem to mind about the length. I mentioned I would keep the same schedule but with as little as I do, I doubt that matters.

I've been loaning my Peace Corp bike out to Francisco and he was gone overnight with it. Perhaps, I shouldn't be so giving with property that isn't mine.

For dinner I had mashed potatoes and risked cooking some sausage type meat I bought at the meat seller. I am big on meat but here not so much. Seeing the conditions it cut, sold, kept and how badly the meat sellers place looks is enough to make anyone a vegetarian.  But it was fine, especially when I cooked it well.

Interns and I

Sunday, 18 June 2023 (125)

Don't normally have breakfast but I did yesterday and today. Yesterday was oatmeal that I added chocolate drink mix to. Next time - no chocolate. Today, a couple eggs and fried potatoes.

If I don't write down the day's events I seem to forget. It isn't that the day's events are uninteresting or full. Every day brings new experiences. I just get lazy about writing.

Painting those boards I worked on up the mountain yesterday - all planed down and smooth now. I'll get these shelves up just above where I expect to put the new desk.

It's been another sunny day here in Paradise. It can be a little cold here at night and in the mornings. There are plenty of gaps in my doors and windows, and you can see sunlight coming through the ceiling . It has rained only once in the month I've been here. Not complaining. I wonder where all the moisture comes from for all the planting and farming.

Out my northern window, which is the one usually always open with a warm and sunny view, I can hear singing at the church just across the field. It is interesting that they use the church. Half of one of their long walls is completely gone. It's probably a hazard with so much structure removed. I asked my tutor about it the other day and he said they were putting in an addition. 


Saturday, 24 June 2023 (131)

Natalie left Antsirabe on a SoaTrans taxi-brusse this morning at 8am. I finished a few errands and headed back to Sahanivotry and arrived about 11am.

This is the first entry I've done the entire visit Natalie was here. I'm not likely to put it on the web blog as it would give away the idea that I had family visit when the Peace Corps has a rule against that for the first three months we're at site.

We spent the first day at Antsirabe where I picked her up from the SoaTrans from Tana. Had a nice day exploring the "Tsina Sabotse" (Saturday Market) and ate at some nice little restaurants. Stayed at the Green Park Hotel this first night and her last.

Three days were spent in Sahanivotry where she met my supervisor, Dr Clertant, my co-workers (we played Monopoly and lost - they are getting better at this - though I doubt the game will survive another month of their hard handling of it). Also met my tutor "Manda" and we went out to his sister's house to do a sanitation presentation. "They can understand you," was the complement he gave me. 

My carpenter friend "David" came by to get my help in bringing down the table he built which was now finished. Up the mountain and back with a meter by two meter table. Crossing the river was a little challenging. I saw that they had a different probably more used bucket to bail the boat with. Looks like someone liked the newer bucket and replaced it with something less. Am I to take that as a warning to be careful with my gifts?

Back to Antsirabe on Thursday for just a day trip. With Natalie's help, I was able to bring back more paint and a computer case. It turns out that the computer people strip it all down bare bones. I had to ask for a power cord even though I bought a 500watt power supply. And the case came without a fan, screws or little rubber case feet. Had to duct tape the fan in the case and scavenge a few screws off the motherboard and case in order to attach the motherboard inside the case. Turning it on did not get me the desired effect so I'll have to try and troubleshoot the problem(s).

It's discouraging but at least Natalie brought me a large computer monitor if I end up trying to go back to editing with the laptop.

Friday we headed back to Antsirabe with Dobby for her third and fourth shots including Rabies. Now I need to wait three weeks, have a blood draw and submit the results for paperwork that could take up to three months to get back that would allow me to take her to America.

We were going to go to the fancy I'nsolite restaurant but I was very tired and we ate at the Green Park restaurant instead.


Sunday, 25 June 2023 (132)

Out my closest window is music from my neighbors as well as loud music from the community. Out my other window is church music from the church across the field. It's usually about a three hour service. No one has a problem here blasting their music for all to hear. No one seems to care or at least I do not notice anyone saying anything.

Now their blaring a speaker over the PA. 

It is Independence Day weekend so I understand. It's like a market day in terms of the amount of people out and about. They have built not motor driven carnival rides. And there will be loud music and parting well into the night if yesterday was any indicator.

I hope to get out and take pictures and video of the activities in the community today. I've been wanting to spend some of every Sunday doing so but have not as yet. In fact, I'm hesitant to just go out my door as there are a dozen family members of at least one if not more pregnant women here waiting to deliver their babies. I get stared at enough everywhere I go. It's nice not to have all my actions here at home to also be under scrutiny. It is understandable to realize that the rooms we live our lives here are so small and contained that being outside is preferable. Yet my place is more than twice the size of my co-workers. 

Thousands turned up for the festivities

Madagascar Independence Day - Monday, 26 June 2023 (133)

Both the Doctor and Mayor asked me to attend the festivities this morning out on the soccer field out by the school. I got to sit om the stand with the dignitaries and got introduced as the Peace Corp Volunteer. Fortunately, I did not have to say anything.

About 10am there about a thousand people and kids. In an hour there would be close to four or five thousand I was told.  I have no idea where all these kids could have come from nor why a small village like Sahanivotry would put host such a large Independence Day party.

Doctor Clertant expressed some interest in me taking pictures. So I went out into the hordes of kids and got plenty of photos and GoPro video. No one here in Madagascar seems to mind me taking photos or video. I don't think they ever see them and likely don't have the same hangups that Americans have of seeing themselves online or dressed good or bad. I try to keep my picture taking to public areas and am always worried when I am just taking pictures of children.

I ended up keeping a couple hundred photos and about an hour of video. Shared copies with the doctor and the Mayor hoping they will see my ability to do more of the same. I was thinking just the other day that the staff here could use new photos that are currently displayed at the CSB.

The ceremony was mostly just the main spokesperson doing introductions of VIPs and the misc. comments as the children's groups all formed up in what I expect was their schools and age groups. Then the Mayor Gave a 10 minute talk. Then every child got to march around in front of the grandstand. It took a while and then more time was taken to enjoy a couple musical groups of adults and children. By then, most of the crowd had dissipated including myself.

There was a sort of mini-market leading away from the parade grounds - mostly people selling food. There was also a human powered Ferris wheel and merry go round.

I noticed the night belonged to those a bit inebriated as I ventured out to the town main street near sunset. Time to get back and stay inside. Of course the music blared into the night. Surprisingly, the music got mellower as the night wore on.


Tuesday, 27 June 2023 (134)

Spent the morning at the CSB as instructed. The doctor was in Antsirabe until this afternoon. 

I find myself in so many conversations where everyone else does the talking and I must look like I know what is being said but I catch only a few words here or there. They continue to talk. I continue to nod. One such discussion occurred today when I the doctor was trying to convey something about the party or meal we'd all have together. I gave one of the intern's 30,000ar to buy meat. I'm not sure that was expected of me or not but I'm sure we all needed to contribute. I had thought this would occur the night before they left which is this Friday but then the doctor is planning to be out of town for a few days.

I was shocked when the interns turned up at my door this evening and insisted cooking on my gas stove, use my cookware, start asking for more food items for the dinner and I realized the party was for tonight and I was hosting it. Another table and chairs was brought in. Fortunately, they provided some plates and utensils. Ended up with 10 or 12. The meat was burnt, the noodles were the cheap pasty kind, and nothing else was looking very delicious including the standard hard and dry Sahanivotry bread. But we all shared a meal together.


Wednesday, 28 June 2023 (135)

Manda, the tutor stopped by at his usual 9am and we talked only about my plan to interview Malagasy people and use him as my translator for the editing. I tried convincing him that this would be great tutoring because he'd be teaching me the culture and helping me to integrate better than if I had to do it on my own.

As I see it, more people could see these videos that my sharing Madagascar culture for the rest of my days. This also supplies the Peace Corps with two out of the three goals we exist. Learn of others cultures and share of ours. I'd prefer if this was my only work here instead of the health component.

Back to painting this afternoon as I got the two back shudders of my co-workers done as well as three of the other doors of our building. 


Thursday, 29 June 2023 (136)

After 4 days, we finally got our water back. Took a shower and refilled all my backup water bottles. I was also hoping to do my laundry but the water stopped again early this afternoon. 

Instead of hanging around the CSB on the typical slow Thursday - I went back to painting with my last can of gray paint. Did the basketball stand and one of the two Kabones (that the outdoors WC or bathroom) and scrubbed out the one shower we all share and painted that door. Ran out of paint again. Time for another trip to Antsirabe tomorrow.

For the last two days, one of the interns has been asking me to either sell him my phone or give him one of mine. I have a backup smartphone (somewhat) I mostly use just for emergencies and for "Whereabouts" to let Peace Corps know if I'm overnighting away from my site. I also keep a different phone plan (Telma vs Orange) on it, just in case, but hardly use it at all.

It's been confusing as he seems to be trying to give me 60,000 in money but I don't know how much, or for how long he would continue to pay me or if that is even his plan. I had heard many other people talk about these kinds of asks. The people here obviously think we have a lot of money, and we do, relative to them, but I want to spend it in other ways - like painting or providing a few helpful addons or necessities. The Peace Corps has always warned me about not being to generous and I understand, but hope I can do so in ways that don't attract attention or make it appear like I can fund their projects or buy them things.

It is hard to say no but I don't have a couple of hundred thousand ariary for a phone for someone. It changes how I view the person a bit knowing that he views me as a means to get something.


Sunday, June 11, 2023

More Tutoring

One of the store owners kids

Tuesday, 6 June 2023 (113)

Had the usual busy morning at the CSB as newborns, toddlers and their mothers came here for their vaccines. There was a heated discussion between Rindra and the doctor as he made some statements that we were speaking a lot of English and it doesn't appear that I am communicating any better. Rindra said she felt he was telling her how and what to do as if he was her supervisor. I get the impression that Dr. Clertant has higher expectations for Peace Corps volunteers than he should. I see some real disappointment coming his way. I believe he thinks we should speak better, be more medically skilled or just be something we (and I) clearly am not. I've asked Rindra to clarify that she is here because I am at the bottom of language skills and that other volunteers don't get tutors, just the bad ones.

It is what it is and doesn't bother me except that he has anticipations higher than he should. I may never be able to write down their names without misspellings. I'm not even sure they themselves can. He's implying that until I can do some things perfectly, he doesn't want me to do certain tasks until I can. That's not likely to happen and I need this time and place to fail and the grow and to learn - and it will be slow. I thought he himself understood that but it seems just the opposite now.

The market afterwards brings the usual entertainment to me as well as that which I provide. Trying to see and talk with the same vendors every week and show the locals I am here to stay. That I am a fixture in the town. We came across the majoy and I ask Rindra to express our concerne that Dr. Clertant may be expecting too much.

It came to me that it may be hard to leave if I come to love the people I serve. Seems pretty obvious.

There are three interns spending the next month here at the CSB. From Rindra's interpretation, I believe they are to be paramedics studying their profession and required to do this kind of training. I had them over to play a game of monopoly. It went slowly and they didn't always grasp the strategy involved - like the necessity to buy and own property. Unfortunately, I won which I shouldn't do.


Wednesday, 7 June 2023 (114)

Went into town and with Rindra's assistance worked out a deal to buy a dozen eggs weekly from one of the restaurants for about 833ar each. Still just $2.30 a dozen. A bit more than the going rate, but worth it to not have to buy them in Antsirabe and bring them home unbroken by taxi-bruss every week.

Late this morning, we spent some time with the three medical/paramedic interns who are staying with the CSB for the next month. They wanted to know about my medical experiences but I tried to turn it around on them and expressed how similar we are. How impressed I am with them, for choosing this profession. How great it is to serve, and how we shouldn't view our differences as anything other than that. No comparisons are appropriate or necessary. Our countries, like ourselves are all different and shouldn't be compared. Later, Rindra said that I was inspiring but could never have expressed myself if she wasn't my interpreter.

We also met with the town carpenter, David who made the bookcase of mine and we commissioned him to make me a table for 120,000ar. I gave him a 80,000 advance. I think that’s a great rate and I intend on paying him more. He's an older guy (61) with lots of energy and enthusiasm. We also mentioned how I would like to spend some time with him observing, filming, learning and even working on projects - for free. No way would I take any money or compensation.

He was ecstatic and walked up the hill with us after doing his errands. At his home a mile up the hill, and across the river, he introduced us to his family (son, wife, daughter-in-law, grandchildren). Not sure what I am buying into here but it's another way I have to connect with the community. He brought out his tools to show me what he is working with. All hand tools, no battery or electricity here. He showed me photos of some of his work - truly amazing for the circumstances, simplicity, and complications. I showed him photos of my small buildings, and of course he thinks he could learn from me. I doubt that. His lifetime of building the Malagasy way is so much more experience than my hobby.

I'm thinking a day a week up here. Bring Dobby. Learn. Share. Speak the language. Contribute as little or as much as I can.

This afternoon, the doctor's wife mentioned how she had talked with other teachers at the school she is over and how they would like to have me teach some of their students and teachers after the coming holidays between school semesters. When she asked me when or how often, I turned it around on her - as is the Peace Corps way - when do they want me to teach and how often? Their needs and wants are my focus, not mine. My schedule is theirs. I am happy to serve, however and where ever.

Before the sun set, we had the group of three interns (Francisco, Simonette, and Nantenaina), one of my co-workers (Yanch), the doctors daughter (Sam) and Rindra come over to play another game of monopoly. This time I tried not to win and didn't. I have no idea how I could teach any of the other games to them when Rindra is gone, but should try. We started this as a way to teach English but they don't seem to be speaking or learning it much. We are having fun and I'm trying not to overdo my hosting. I've provided soda and candy. I have the perfect atmosphere with a great lighting fixture, my small game sized table and a great environment with space and color.

Edible bug found in the market but not sure what kind

Thursday, 8 June 2023 (115)

No running water again today. About every two days the water stops running or just slows down significantly at times during the day.

Spent the morning at the CSB but with nothing to do I started picking up trash. Got the whole compound cleaned up. Doctor C says I don't need to or shouldn't do but that doesn't stop me. He also said the mayor wanted to talk with me so we wandered over to the village offices. On the way, he was trying to express that he thought I had a problem with him - this likely due to the fact that we talked with the mayor on Tuesday and it obviously got back to him. I said I had no problems but that I was concerned he would eventually have problems with me. The mayor came along down the path and I think we just skipped the need to talk by saying there was no problems. 

I did mention my connecting with and plans to work with David, a friend of his and the town's carpenter. Did we all solve the problem of working together better? Not sure. Probably not. We'll see.

My tutor Manda came by. He needed to be trained by Rindra but she had gone up to Antsirabe with Nada and her sick cat to my vet. I entertained or I should say, was tutored for my first hour as we covered material I was already familiar with. Rindra eventually came around and we did the training he needs to get for the Peace Corps to feel satisfied.

The gang of three interns and the doctor's daughter and Sarah came by for more games. We taught them Skull King and Liars dice or I should say Rindra did. But liar's dice wasn't an easy teach as math skills here in Madagascar are pretty bad. But it should have been fairly fun even if I am the only one learning about numbers in their language.

Nada's cat died this evening. It had a severe case of worms supposedly and it was too small and young for any treatment.

Found in Antsirabe today

Friday, 9 June 2023 (116)

Before Rindra left for home today, we had one more good talk with the doctor and discussed the possibility of painting the two rooms used for pregnancies. I have always thought a fresh coat of paint would help brighten up and encourage women to want to come to the CSB for their deliveries. I didn't want this to just be me or my idea. I keep trying to express or in this situation, have Rindra express how the Peace Corps methods is more about getting the community to tell you what they need or want rather than it coming from the Peace Corp volunteer. In the current case, it seems that the doctor and I are on the same page. 

I also wanted Rindra to express the idea that this is not going to happen by the Peace Corps. Yes, we could put in a grant for paint but that likely will take several months to get approved and funded. Perhaps we'll still do so but it can help fund more paint down the road.

I was able to get a ride with the Peace Corps vehicle to Antsirabe where I picked up more groceries. Unfortunately, they are mostly snacks, candies, and cookies. I originally was going to take in Dobby as they injected her last shot into the skin of her neck instead of muscle. For the last week, she's had a lump where the medication pooled. But today the lump subsided and Rindra called the vet to see if it was ok not to bring her in for a second shot.

It was important to pick up more paint to do Sarah's room on Monday. My regular paint store was out of that particular blue paint so I started looking in some of the others. I asked a couple guys standing on the street where I could buy paint. One took me to a store just down the street. I could find it on my own but he was being very helpful. Obviously he knows how to get into my attention and likely will expect something in return. I don't have a problem with that so long as we both benefit. The store didn't appear to have the paint but another gentleman overheard our conversation and took us to the back warehouse and found just the right kind of blue, maybe even brighter than the last.

So I bought the paint and needed a ride to the Taxi-brusses. Of course this guy has a PusPus and took me there. In negotiating his fee I didn't have anything smaller than a 10,000. He said something along the lines of examine your heart and I knew he was playing me a little, but I was ok with it as he had been very helpful. I asked for 5,000 back and he was good with that. Normally the PusPus ride costs 2,000.

The nearly two hour ride back got me to thinking. I remember several years ago a dream that came to me several times. In it I was on a another mission. In that dream I was older than everyone else. I had thought it was related to a proselytizing mission for the church but now I see how it probably was about serving in this capacity with all the younger PCVs. It isn't the first time I've had dreams that came true or brought understanding to my life.


Saturday, 10 June 2023 (117)

It had been a good day to get things accomplished. I got my laundry done, painted some shelves and the boards used to secure my shutters, and I cleaned up and organized my room as well as scrubbed some of the floor.


Sunday, 11 June 2023 (118)

Woke up with a droopy left eyelid. It's probably related to the bad sunburn I have on my nose. I've been applying moisturizing cream and perhaps that got into my eye. I need to wait until tomorrow before I can or should contact the Peace Corps doctors. They don't like to be disturbed on weekends unless it's an emergency. I also have a Tovo coming by tomorrow when he is in the neighborhood.

Monday, June 5, 2023

All Welcome - Especially Ponies

No ponies yet.

Friday, 2 June 2023 (109)

Spent the day in Antsirabe with Rindra and her mother. As usual, spend more money than I should have but needed to get items like blue paint for my co-workers rooms, paint brushes, dogfood and just staples for me to eat. My diet has taken a hit. I eat usually just a single meal a day and try and get some food off the street vendor or at the local restaurant. Though the food I eat there is of the same type I feel comfortable with - potatoes, meat and not much more.

I finally found and bought some eggs - not found here in Sahanivotry or Manadona. The hardest part is getting them back on the trek and taxi-bruss without breaking. But tonight it was heaven to taste fried eggs again after almost four months without. I cooked two but then had to cook two more.

We officially called Manda and confirmed him as my tutor. We'll start with some training for him in the official Peace Corps way next week. We also called the LDS couple to give them the bad news. Another discussion was had with Cr. Clertant about what his hopes are for me in teaching sensitization sessions. It's a little optimistic and scary to think that I can master the language enough to teach with it but if I fold the vocabulary in and work at it perhaps I can.

Saturday, 3 June 2023 (110)

Today Rindra, her mom, even Dobby and I are going to Antsirabe. There we'll meet up with Samson. The plan is to get Dobby her second shot (2 of the 4 or 5 required). We also found a vet in town who will do the spading operation but we first need to get her all the shots. We also talked with the Taxi-bruss driver on the way home yesterday and questioned him about bringing a dog on the vehicle. He said as long as it was in a box and stayed in my lap that it shouldn't be a problem. We'll see. I'm still not likely to tell them I have the dog in the box. We'll attempt to keep it quiet until we're not able to.

I'm up at 4am this morning as Dr Clertant asked if I would be interested in observing at the least, if not participating in a circumcision. The early hour seems to be a tradition according to him. It wasn't till nearly six am that the seven family members arrived. Even though the arms of the 18 month old were somewhat incapacitated by wrapping his arms in his shirt - I was asked to hold his arms down.

A needle with something to numb the procedure was injected in his penis area and a few cuts were made. The worst part was the use of a soldering iron to seal the cut. Not a medical grade, or even sanitized soldering iron - just your everyday soldering iron used to fuse two wires together.

Then off to Antsirabe with Rindra and her mom and Dobby in her box and large rice bag. "Great camouflage", one off the other PCVs would later call it. Even if some think it ok, we'd just keep it low key and not tell anyone. It worked out well and Dobby didn't make any noise or try and get out.

She got her second shot before we dropped her at my room at the Green Park Hotel - one of two officially accepted Peace Corp hotels. The rest of the day was spent shopping for things needed or thought needed. Then I had dinner with four of my G58 PCVs - Tahlia, Sarah, Julica, Emily and Nada (she had to get back to Manadona for her cat) and four of G57 PCVs - Becky, Jesse, Thomas and Kathryn. Sam and Rindra (technically a Peace Corps LCF) choose not to come along as Rindra had her mother along, and I thought they were going to attend a musical concert in town for Mother's day (which is tomorrow here in Madagascar).

It was great to hear about the other PCVs experiences being four months in country longer than us. They are all Agricultural and Education PCVs. It is true that each of our experiences are different and unique. Some have busy schedules and demands made of them. Some like me - not so many demands, at least not yet. My town is very small compared with Nada's just down the road in Manadona. It's probably about four or five times larger and likely the work at the CSB there is also proportionally more.

I asked the other group if every day still seemed like an adventure to them. They responded back,"if you are doing it right." We went to a very foreigner restaurant. It's called L'insolite, a very fancy place. Almost everyone there was French or spoke it. Dinner cost about 450,000 ariary for nine of us. That about $104 for food that is very western including duck, steak, ice cream, and most had wine.

Sunday, 4 June 2023 (111)

I had thought to head right home this morning as it is more complicated carrying around a 50 pound backpack of supplies and a dog in a box/bag. But Sam talked me into staying a bit. We had lunch and found another - that makes three - American style groceries stores.

On the taxi-bruss back, the road claimed a victim - a semi-truck got stuck in the road just where they had made repairs a day or two ago. The traffic in both directions was staring to add up. I decided to walk the rest of the way not knowing how long this could take. 3-4 kilometers later a van offered to take me, and another, the rest of the way. Ten minutes after we arrived home, I saw the red taxi-bruss (we had been in) drive down the main road. We saved ourselves a few minutes but it cost us some exercise. But I was home early enough to do some sorely needed laundry - by hand of course.

Monday, 5 June 2023 (112)

Painted Yantz's room. Took most of the day and there was nothing I could do about the mold in the walls but paint over it. No amount of paint coats seem to hide it. I had bought three 8k tubs of blue paint. It took two and a half of them. It will take another trip to Antsirabe to get a couple more to paint Sarah's room next Monday. The darker colors do best and cover in just a couple coats. I feel even painting is work that I am happy to do as a Peace Corps volunteer and fits in with why we are here. It's just not proper that I am paying for it all.

Thursday, June 1, 2023

Manadona and New Tutor

Finished painting room

Sunday, 28 May 2023 (104)

Another long slog to bike to Manadona for church. I felt inspired to talk with one sister about my looking for a tutor. She said she and her husband work for the missionary department here in Madagascar. I got her name and number to call in the next week or two. Like the other teacher I talked to this week they both live and work in Manadona.

Monday, 29 May 2023 (105)

Dr. Clertant is still out of town and Rindra should have gotten in to Antsirabe today. The mayor brought by a guy who was going to help me with painting. I had already started to prep the walls and floor for the blue and green paint. Turns out we had just enough blue for the one long wall but barely enough for the small green wall. The green paint is just not  the covering kind of paint. Much like the yellow wall which took half or more of the 20k bucket.

Bought my guy lunch and we finished up about 2pm. I let him go so I could finish up and get the place back in order. It's looking good now. Just a few more additions like more shelves and curtains.

Child at CSB


Tuesday, 30 May 2023 (106)

At the clinic this morning again. Starting to figure some things out but will like it more when Rindra can clarify for me my schedule, the schedule of the CSB and what exactly is expected of me. One thing already she help me determine - Dobby is a girl dog.

As soon as Rindra got here I took her around the Tuesday Market and had her answering questions for me, such as, where can I buy eggs in Sahanivotry? The answer - nowhere. I also am using her to help me remember names of my co-workers and favorite people in town. I can't keep asking them over and over, and there are so many. I think if I just write them down and their position in town and possibly try and get a photo, that should help.

Manda & Rindra - future and past tutors.

Thursday, 1 June 2023 (108)

Rindra and I went to Manadona this morning to meet with the three potential tutors and visit the Thursday Manadona market.

We spent about half an hour with Sitrapanahy and her husband who are members of the church branch here in Manadona. I felt inspired Sunday to talk to her and she said her husband would be the more likely tutor. Today, she said she would probably be the primary tutor and her husband, the backup. But in our conversations there was little English spoken by her and almost none from her husband. I also thought she had said she and her husband worked for the church, but today I discovered they did not. They learned their English from American companions when they were missionaries here many years ago. 

There was much information shared by Rindra and me but very little English was heard from them. Even when asked, only a sentence or two was conveyed and it was obvious to both of us that there could be some communication problems. 

On to Manda in Manadona. He met us just outside the CSB and he was smiling more than I remembered from last week in Sahanivotry. He spoke as much English as Malagasy in our conversations. The more we talked, the more we both felt this guy would be the best tutor. He mentioned how he was more interested in doing this more for learning than for the money. The going rate for tutoring is 15,000ar or about $3.47 an hour. I had been told this is more than what teachers make and the average people live on here is around $3 a day.

Afterwards, Rindra and I both agreed that he would be my tutor. The hard part will be letting the other couple down.

We connected with Nada, the health volunteer here in Manadona. She seemed to be a little flustered with more additional work at the CSB today. Her co-workers and two other french volunteers seemed not to be around. I was pleased to see her a little confused as we watched her getting instructions. She didn't look like she understood. I felt that same way and get the impression it is common for us to go through this confusion being new. Nada was at the top of our class in language and gave the speech to represent our cohort at swearing-in so I know it isn't just me.

We connected back up about noon when she finished her time and got something to eat. I had three or four people come up to me in the streets who knew me from church or Sahanivotry. Nada says I am already spoken about in Manadona. My reputation has already expanded even here. I should thank my supervisor Dr. Clertant, who takes every opportunity to introduce me to all people gathered together at the CSB or in town. And he and my co-workers continue to take me out to the local fokantanies to do so as well. 

The three of us got some street food and bought a few items - more balloons and chocolate to give away to children, and a ball for a little girl I met across the river yesterday who was playing with her own homemade ball of string and cardboard. We stopped to talk to an older woman who was selling groups of four and five seeds for 100ar (about two cents). How could she possible be making any money? But there she was, selling the least expensive things among hundreds of sellers. I bought four seeds and won't say what I paid for them. Thinking back, I wished I had paid ten times more. I hope to see her again soon, to do just that.

All the taxi-bruss' were more than full headed back to Sahanivotry, so we walked south until a taxi-bruss drove by that had some room. Otherwise, it would have been quite the hike back to town. Rindra's mother had made us both some lunch. 

Adventure's End

Manda, Salva and me Tuesday, 15 August 2023 (183) Long ride to Tana with little air circulation but it was a nicer Soatrans bus. Rindra came...