100 Days

First Wall Painted

Monday, 22 May 2023 (98)

Turned up at the CSB but Dr. Clertant had a meeting in Antsirabe. Spent the day finishing the yellow wall of the kitchen. Everyone thinks it is good but the standards for quality are very low here. A little confused as to what is expected and wanted from me and what my schedule is to be.

Tuesday, 23 May 2023 (99)

It was Tuesday market for Sahanivotry. I was walking about before 9 when Dr. Clertant was expecting me at the CSB. It's vaccination day for expectant mothers and their newborns. Many were still setting up their stalls. There are a few things sold here on market day that is not found in the town normally. In fact, very few items are found in the town. The few stores there are mostly selling a few basics, rice, flour, corn, powdered this and that. They sell it by the kilo. Then there is some treats, drinks and important things like eggs and oil, soap and water. There's also a handful of shops that make and sell Malagasy food. But I just wanted a look at what to expect at the market. I had seen it once before during my site visit.

I had lots of questions and figured I might as well ask even with my very basic language skills. I saw something that looked like sugar cane. Sure enough it was and when I asked for what use, I was told Toako Gasy which is a homemade moonshine which Peace Corps volunteers are forbidden to drink. It's some serious and dangerous liquor. Another bag of what looked like charcoal and tree twigs or branches. I guess from what I was told it's bought for charcoal stove cooking. Lots and lots of questions. Maybe I'll find out everything eventually. Maybe I'll have my tutor in a week or so help me navigate this new world better.

At the CSB, I was completely lost. We are communicating with a mix of my very little Malagasy and the google translate app. After some confusion I was asked just to start talking with the people. Let them get to know me. Start integrating myself in the commune. Ok then. I guess I'm a little like the receptionist and welcome wagon. And I'm also the tallest one around. At 5'10, that shouldn't be, but it is. Then they had me doing weights of a pregnant mother and writing it down in her book. Every mother and child has a book that keeps track of shots, weights, treatments, medications and on and on. Then I was shown how to weigh toddlers with a scale hanging from a beam and utilizing a sling that has two holes for the toddler legs. Reach up and grab their legs and pull them through the sling, Then hang the sling on the hook and make note of the weight.

I'm not a baby kind of guy and certainly not one who likes getting his hands dirty on several babies who seem to have lost bowel movements or urinated in their pants. I doubt they have these kids in disposable diapers. Ok, I'm starting to get the idea of what is being done here. There were probably 50-60 mothers and their infants coming thru this morning. Dr. Clertant made a deal out of making a big speech about me and all I could do is try and follow what he was saying. I believe he's trying to get me integrated in the community quickly so I can gain their trust. Very difficult for me to judge how I am doing here. I feel the need to apologize for my bad language skills. I think they understand and are trying to be optimistic.

 

Wednesday, 24 May 2023 (100)

Today is a hundred days on this adventure. The Mayor brought a friend over to help put up my overhead light just like the one we had in the Pleasant Grove townhouse over the game table. They also helped sting another outlet across the ceiling and onto another wall. These were probably things I could have done myself except I like the idea of paying someone a better than acceptable wage and it doesn't hurt to see how they do things here. It's a little less than top-notch professional, almost a good enough attitude - sort of like my building style. I suppose I'd fit in well here as a worker.

Then the afternoon was spent painting another wall a bright blue (Manga) which turned out very nice. What I don't like is the fact that I am still living out of boxes, suitcases and a footlocker. Need more shelves, need more places to store my clothes, food, cameras, books and everything else. I have the wood for those shelves but need shelf hangers which I seem to have forgotten to get when I was last in town. Time for another trip to Antsirabe,

I am also eating terribly. I am not use to such limited choices. I am only cooking one meal a day and it is either noodles or potatoes or meat right now.  Bought some bananas and oranges. And certainly not hydrating enough. Too much bottled soda and not enough water. 

One of two schools in Sahanivotry

Thursday, 25 May 2023 (101)

At eight this morning, one of my coworkers and I hit the commune and she introduced me to certain important individuals in town - one was a priest, several of the school teachers but beyond that I am not sure. Again, I try and speak what little I can but my skills don't go too far. I nod, get a laugh once in a while and generally just try and understand what is being said about me. Everyone is friendly.

I got around to doing my laundry (by hand of course) and getting the place a little more picked up. I'm feeling a little on the weak and tired side by my lack of varied eating. Perhaps I should look into eating something at the local shack restaurants, Sorry, calling them shack restaurants because that just describes them and they would not be considered typical restaurants elsewhere. But that may be a solution to some of my eating issues.

Friday, 26 May 2023 (102)

Having no assignments today and being that my supervisor was going out of town for a family gathering, I decided to head to Antsirabe to pick up some supplies. Feel a little better leaving Dobby alone for hours at a time having done it a couple times now and things have been fine upon my return.

As usual, I spent more money than I had hoped to. I'm getting the hang of this. Finding my way around. Communicating enough with what I know and the apps to deal with whatever comes my way.

Bookshelf built by carpenter and myself

Saturday, 27 May 2023 (103)

Today, was a good day. Up a little later - 8:30 before I stepped outside, but so much was accomplished today. I had started to make a list of things to do each day. I have rarely gotten all the things done but certainly it is a great starting place. Here, I realize there is lots of time unencumbered from many distractions in America. Sure, I did bring plenty of digital copies of movies and yes, I do have a hundred or two of books (mostly classics), and yes, I even have internet connection, which can be a little slow and spotty. 

But if you avoid the urge to waste your time, you soon discover so many more useful ways to utilize your time here. And for now, it's best that I work towards fitting in, making friends, becoming known to my new home and community of Sahanivotry. I did get the trash out, and then promptly started it on fire. I remember the first discussion we had in PST (Pre-Service Training) as we talked about what happens to our trash - a few individuals were upset that the people here burned it. "So bad for the environment" was the cry. 

Yup. But there are no garbage trucks, no sanitation department (that I am aware of) - not here in the rural and outskirts of the largest cities. Even in Antsirabe (which is the second largest city in Madagascar) doesn't have garbage pickup as far as I know. There are heaps of trash on the side of the road here and there. And good luck in finding a trash can anywhere away from a franchised store. So burning the trash is what occurs here. So, I started a fire. Easier than I figured. I had a week's worth of trash. I think all the new things, (and specifically the packaging, tags, bags and wrappings that come with it ) I have bought is much more than what my co-workers and neighbors have to burn. Everything for purchase in town, other than some treats and soda containers, is packaging free. I've thus learned to carry around plastic sacks if I intend on getting a kilo of potatoes or tomatoes, or even a handful/canful of peanuts.

And everything here can have a second life. One of the objects I intended for the fire was a smaller bucket used to hold some of the paint I bought. My counterpart (her name evades me), asked if she could have it, then spent 15 minutes cleaning it of blue paint. No idea what she might want to use it for but I completely understand. I've been recycling almost everything I can such as plastic bags - as there is an extra charge for bags in most shops and stores. I've also held on to paper products as it is cheaper than going through rolls of paper towels to pick up or wipe up "Dobby's" droppings and urine. Speaking of which, I need to figure out how to potty train him. Not sure if he's capable of learning that at the moment. I'm wondering if a doggy door would be overkill for this place. And I'm not sure my landlord would appreciate ruining a perfectly good door for an animal's convenience not high on their list around here.

Back to the trash - I went around the CSB grounds and picked up trash which was considerable - especially just over the fence east of me. Or I should say, the broken down fence as so many use this way across the fields as a shortcut into town rather than take the road. It shortens the trip to town by three quarters. I'll have to ask Dr. Clertant if he'd prefer me to fix the fence or perhaps improve the downward climb to the field and continue to let people use it as a shortcut.

My next goal was a lengthy trip into town. I've been here more than a week and I have not yet spent considerable time meeting the good people of Sahanivotry. My purpose today is to greet everyone and stop and introduce myself wherever possible.

First stop - the corner shop that sells prepared food for quick meals. This is a common thing in Madagascar. Cooking food is a lengthy process. For many, especially workers, it is simpler to just find a vendor streetside or in a small "restaurant" that is everywhere. Most of the food is exhibited in glass cases. And nothing looks too hygienic.  Unless you see it freshly cooked, you never know exactly how long it's been sitting out. It goes without saying that you should count on it being cold. Here I saw they had some meat and separately some spaghetti noodles. Unfortunately, it also had some carrots and an undetermined greenish vegetable but I am determined. Maybe this could solve of my lack of eating varied filled meals. And the price is right - just a couple thousand ariary - less than a buck.

Sure, let's go for it. In training there was much caution against eating street food but I've been in country nearly four months now. I've been eating local foods at two different households (from my host families in Mantasoa and here) as well as the food served us at PCTC (Peace Corps Training Camp). I think my body has adjusted a little. I'm willing to risk a little sickness if in the process I can gain the trust of my new neighbors. "When in Sahanivotry - do as the Sahanivotrians."

It was fine and as usual, I draw a crowd wherever I go. Usually, I just give them my name, ask theirs and tell them a little about myself. Before long the conversation gets complicated and I'm at that disadvantage of having just a bare understanding of this language. I am surprised that I do hear often that I speak good Malagasy. I take that lightly. And I have several apps to aid me when it gets complicated.

As I walked up one side of the street and back the other, I would stop wherever there were adults, kids, teenagers, or elderly to talk to. I stopped at all the shack stores (as I call them - no disrespect, but it fits the bill descriptively). There is so little to purchase at even the most well stock shops. Soap, brushes, brooms, large bags of flour, sugar, and a variety of things I have yet to figure out, drinks (water, alcoholic and sodas), treats of many kinds - cookies, biscuits, some chocolate (small ones). For more variety, one has to either wait for the Tuesday market or make the two hour Taxi-brusse ride to Antsirabe. I also tried to purchase something at each of the shops. 

There are two meat sellers to be found in town - neither one is very clean or hygienic. They both have homemade flyswatters to keep the myriad flies and bugs from settling on the meat too long. Good luck with that. Nothing looks particularly appetizing. I eat meat and I am not exactly thrilled with the prospect of purchasing meat. Maybe I'll become a vegetarian? Not likely. At one shop, there was a pig sliced up the middle and they were processing its innards. Very photogenic but not very appetizing. I think I'll be eating meat once or twice a week in the future.

I discovered the village carpenter shop. They were finishing three lengthy pews for the church in the town south of us. The work looked primitive but solid. Still the builder. I'm very curious what they can build, what tools they use and if they have wood to buy. I discovered little on this first visit but I may be very interested in spending some time here helping and learning what they do and how they do it. I inquired about getting some rods for my window drapes. One of the gentlemen came back to my place to measure the windows. Then when it seemed obvious I could just buy three brooms and use the broom handles for less than half the price they were asking (which wasn't much), the decision was made instead to have them build me a bookcase and use the wood I already had. A second trip across that field shortcut and we retrieved half the wood planks I had Peace Corps originally buy me at installation.

40,000ar (about $9.25 or $14 if they used their wood) was the determined price for a bookcase 130 x 100 with four shelves. We drew up the plans on a sheet from my pocket notepad. I expected to be waiting till next week when to my surprise the guy dropped it off later this afternoon. The nice part about them doing it was that their cuts were straighter and they actually were able to sand down some of the wood with a power sander. All of this I could have done but don't have the tools or absolute talent for. Of course the piece they made for me had no strengthening supports so I added a couple pieces of wood to sturdy it and keep the bookcase from collapsing over time. I definitely need to spend some time with these guys.

A good day for connecting with the town.