100 Days

First Wall Painted

Monday, 22 May 2023 (98)

Turned up at the CSB but Dr. Clertant had a meeting in Antsirabe. Spent the day finishing the yellow wall of the kitchen. Everyone thinks it is good but the standards for quality are very low here. A little confused as to what is expected and wanted from me and what my schedule is to be.

Tuesday, 23 May 2023 (99)

It was Tuesday market for Sahanivotry. I was walking about before 9 when Dr. Clertant was expecting me at the CSB. It's vaccination day for expectant mothers and their newborns. Many were still setting up their stalls. There are a few things sold here on market day that is not found in the town normally. In fact, very few items are found in the town. The few stores there are mostly selling a few basics, rice, flour, corn, powdered this and that. They sell it by the kilo. Then there is some treats, drinks and important things like eggs and oil, soap and water. There's also a handful of shops that make and sell Malagasy food. But I just wanted a look at what to expect at the market. I had seen it once before during my site visit.

I had lots of questions and figured I might as well ask even with my very basic language skills. I saw something that looked like sugar cane. Sure enough it was and when I asked for what use, I was told Toako Gasy which is a homemade moonshine which Peace Corps volunteers are forbidden to drink. It's some serious and dangerous liquor. Another bag of what looked like charcoal and tree twigs or branches. I guess from what I was told it's bought for charcoal stove cooking. Lots and lots of questions. Maybe I'll find out everything eventually. Maybe I'll have my tutor in a week or so help me navigate this new world better.

At the CSB, I was completely lost. We are communicating with a mix of my very little Malagasy and the google translate app. After some confusion I was asked just to start talking with the people. Let them get to know me. Start integrating myself in the commune. Ok then. I guess I'm a little like the receptionist and welcome wagon. And I'm also the tallest one around. At 5'10, that shouldn't be, but it is. Then they had me doing weights of a pregnant mother and writing it down in her book. Every mother and child has a book that keeps track of shots, weights, treatments, medications and on and on. Then I was shown how to weigh toddlers with a scale hanging from a beam and utilizing a sling that has two holes for the toddler legs. Reach up and grab their legs and pull them through the sling, Then hang the sling on the hook and make note of the weight.

I'm not a baby kind of guy and certainly not one who likes getting his hands dirty on several babies who seem to have lost bowel movements or urinated in their pants. I doubt they have these kids in disposable diapers. Ok, I'm starting to get the idea of what is being done here. There were probably 50-60 mothers and their infants coming thru this morning. Dr. Clertant made a deal out of making a big speech about me and all I could do is try and follow what he was saying. I believe he's trying to get me integrated in the community quickly so I can gain their trust. Very difficult for me to judge how I am doing here. I feel the need to apologize for my bad language skills. I think they understand and are trying to be optimistic.

 

Wednesday, 24 May 2023 (100)

Today is a hundred days on this adventure. The Mayor brought a friend over to help put up my overhead light just like the one we had in the Pleasant Grove townhouse over the game table. They also helped sting another outlet across the ceiling and onto another wall. These were probably things I could have done myself except I like the idea of paying someone a better than acceptable wage and it doesn't hurt to see how they do things here. It's a little less than top-notch professional, almost a good enough attitude - sort of like my building style. I suppose I'd fit in well here as a worker.

Then the afternoon was spent painting another wall a bright blue (Manga) which turned out very nice. What I don't like is the fact that I am still living out of boxes, suitcases and a footlocker. Need more shelves, need more places to store my clothes, food, cameras, books and everything else. I have the wood for those shelves but need shelf hangers which I seem to have forgotten to get when I was last in town. Time for another trip to Antsirabe,

I am also eating terribly. I am not use to such limited choices. I am only cooking one meal a day and it is either noodles or potatoes or meat right now.  Bought some bananas and oranges. And certainly not hydrating enough. Too much bottled soda and not enough water. 

One of two schools in Sahanivotry

Thursday, 25 May 2023 (101)

At eight this morning, one of my coworkers and I hit the commune and she introduced me to certain important individuals in town - one was a priest, several of the school teachers but beyond that I am not sure. Again, I try and speak what little I can but my skills don't go too far. I nod, get a laugh once in a while and generally just try and understand what is being said about me. Everyone is friendly.

I got around to doing my laundry (by hand of course) and getting the place a little more picked up. I'm feeling a little on the weak and tired side by my lack of varied eating. Perhaps I should look into eating something at the local shack restaurants, Sorry, calling them shack restaurants because that just describes them and they would not be considered typical restaurants elsewhere. But that may be a solution to some of my eating issues.

Friday, 26 May 2023 (102)

Having no assignments today and being that my supervisor was going out of town for a family gathering, I decided to head to Antsirabe to pick up some supplies. Feel a little better leaving Dobby alone for hours at a time having done it a couple times now and things have been fine upon my return.

As usual, I spent more money than I had hoped to. I'm getting the hang of this. Finding my way around. Communicating enough with what I know and the apps to deal with whatever comes my way.

Bookshelf built by carpenter and myself

Saturday, 27 May 2023 (103)

Today, was a good day. Up a little later - 8:30 before I stepped outside, but so much was accomplished today. I had started to make a list of things to do each day. I have rarely gotten all the things done but certainly it is a great starting place. Here, I realize there is lots of time unencumbered from many distractions in America. Sure, I did bring plenty of digital copies of movies and yes, I do have a hundred or two of books (mostly classics), and yes, I even have internet connection, which can be a little slow and spotty. 

But if you avoid the urge to waste your time, you soon discover so many more useful ways to utilize your time here. And for now, it's best that I work towards fitting in, making friends, becoming known to my new home and community of Sahanivotry. I did get the trash out, and then promptly started it on fire. I remember the first discussion we had in PST (Pre-Service Training) as we talked about what happens to our trash - a few individuals were upset that the people here burned it. "So bad for the environment" was the cry. 

Yup. But there are no garbage trucks, no sanitation department (that I am aware of) - not here in the rural and outskirts of the largest cities. Even in Antsirabe (which is the second largest city in Madagascar) doesn't have garbage pickup as far as I know. There are heaps of trash on the side of the road here and there. And good luck in finding a trash can anywhere away from a franchised store. So burning the trash is what occurs here. So, I started a fire. Easier than I figured. I had a week's worth of trash. I think all the new things, (and specifically the packaging, tags, bags and wrappings that come with it ) I have bought is much more than what my co-workers and neighbors have to burn. Everything for purchase in town, other than some treats and soda containers, is packaging free. I've thus learned to carry around plastic sacks if I intend on getting a kilo of potatoes or tomatoes, or even a handful/canful of peanuts.

And everything here can have a second life. One of the objects I intended for the fire was a smaller bucket used to hold some of the paint I bought. My counterpart (her name evades me), asked if she could have it, then spent 15 minutes cleaning it of blue paint. No idea what she might want to use it for but I completely understand. I've been recycling almost everything I can such as plastic bags - as there is an extra charge for bags in most shops and stores. I've also held on to paper products as it is cheaper than going through rolls of paper towels to pick up or wipe up "Dobby's" droppings and urine. Speaking of which, I need to figure out how to potty train him. Not sure if he's capable of learning that at the moment. I'm wondering if a doggy door would be overkill for this place. And I'm not sure my landlord would appreciate ruining a perfectly good door for an animal's convenience not high on their list around here.

Back to the trash - I went around the CSB grounds and picked up trash which was considerable - especially just over the fence east of me. Or I should say, the broken down fence as so many use this way across the fields as a shortcut into town rather than take the road. It shortens the trip to town by three quarters. I'll have to ask Dr. Clertant if he'd prefer me to fix the fence or perhaps improve the downward climb to the field and continue to let people use it as a shortcut.

My next goal was a lengthy trip into town. I've been here more than a week and I have not yet spent considerable time meeting the good people of Sahanivotry. My purpose today is to greet everyone and stop and introduce myself wherever possible.

First stop - the corner shop that sells prepared food for quick meals. This is a common thing in Madagascar. Cooking food is a lengthy process. For many, especially workers, it is simpler to just find a vendor streetside or in a small "restaurant" that is everywhere. Most of the food is exhibited in glass cases. And nothing looks too hygienic.  Unless you see it freshly cooked, you never know exactly how long it's been sitting out. It goes without saying that you should count on it being cold. Here I saw they had some meat and separately some spaghetti noodles. Unfortunately, it also had some carrots and an undetermined greenish vegetable but I am determined. Maybe this could solve of my lack of eating varied filled meals. And the price is right - just a couple thousand ariary - less than a buck.

Sure, let's go for it. In training there was much caution against eating street food but I've been in country nearly four months now. I've been eating local foods at two different households (from my host families in Mantasoa and here) as well as the food served us at PCTC (Peace Corps Training Camp). I think my body has adjusted a little. I'm willing to risk a little sickness if in the process I can gain the trust of my new neighbors. "When in Sahanivotry - do as the Sahanivotrians."

It was fine and as usual, I draw a crowd wherever I go. Usually, I just give them my name, ask theirs and tell them a little about myself. Before long the conversation gets complicated and I'm at that disadvantage of having just a bare understanding of this language. I am surprised that I do hear often that I speak good Malagasy. I take that lightly. And I have several apps to aid me when it gets complicated.

As I walked up one side of the street and back the other, I would stop wherever there were adults, kids, teenagers, or elderly to talk to. I stopped at all the shack stores (as I call them - no disrespect, but it fits the bill descriptively). There is so little to purchase at even the most well stock shops. Soap, brushes, brooms, large bags of flour, sugar, and a variety of things I have yet to figure out, drinks (water, alcoholic and sodas), treats of many kinds - cookies, biscuits, some chocolate (small ones). For more variety, one has to either wait for the Tuesday market or make the two hour Taxi-brusse ride to Antsirabe. I also tried to purchase something at each of the shops. 

There are two meat sellers to be found in town - neither one is very clean or hygienic. They both have homemade flyswatters to keep the myriad flies and bugs from settling on the meat too long. Good luck with that. Nothing looks particularly appetizing. I eat meat and I am not exactly thrilled with the prospect of purchasing meat. Maybe I'll become a vegetarian? Not likely. At one shop, there was a pig sliced up the middle and they were processing its innards. Very photogenic but not very appetizing. I think I'll be eating meat once or twice a week in the future.

I discovered the village carpenter shop. They were finishing three lengthy pews for the church in the town south of us. The work looked primitive but solid. Still the builder. I'm very curious what they can build, what tools they use and if they have wood to buy. I discovered little on this first visit but I may be very interested in spending some time here helping and learning what they do and how they do it. I inquired about getting some rods for my window drapes. One of the gentlemen came back to my place to measure the windows. Then when it seemed obvious I could just buy three brooms and use the broom handles for less than half the price they were asking (which wasn't much), the decision was made instead to have them build me a bookcase and use the wood I already had. A second trip across that field shortcut and we retrieved half the wood planks I had Peace Corps originally buy me at installation.

40,000ar (about $9.25 or $14 if they used their wood) was the determined price for a bookcase 130 x 100 with four shelves. We drew up the plans on a sheet from my pocket notepad. I expected to be waiting till next week when to my surprise the guy dropped it off later this afternoon. The nice part about them doing it was that their cuts were straighter and they actually were able to sand down some of the wood with a power sander. All of this I could have done but don't have the tools or absolute talent for. Of course the piece they made for me had no strengthening supports so I added a couple pieces of wood to sturdy it and keep the bookcase from collapsing over time. I definitely need to spend some time with these guys.

A good day for connecting with the town.

New Digs

First meal in new place - Frites!

Saturday, 20 May 2023 (96)

Left about 7:30 by taxibruss for hour and a half trip to Antsirabe. Forgot my Peace Corps card so I ended up only drawing out my US funds. Had a long list of things I realize I now need. That's what getting here and seeing what works, what doesn't and what you wish you had. I got most of the items but still can use more. Looks like this is going to take a while.  I treated myself to a nice fried chicken meal. Still not a fan of tradition Malagasy meals including the rice.

The taxibruss coming and going insists on taking in more people than there are seats. And just when one or two exit - there are more to fill the spots along the way. And stops are fairly frequent. We'll pick up a large battery here, perhaps an empty water container to be filled at some point. And furniture and large bags of straw, hay or something I'm not even sure I know what it is. 

Sunday, 21 May 2023 (97)

It has been a long day and I am not likely eating enough. I had an orange this morning and then some Pomme Frites this evening. Just haven't made a lot of food and have limited things on hand. I probably should be buying some fruit for snacking on. I'll stock up on Tuesday - it's market day when people come from all around to sell their wares.

I left about 7:30 on the Peace Corps bike (and helmet) that I hadn't yet tried out. It's fine, though maybe my bike riding skills and my bottom isn't used to it. Like all new experiences here, one learns what is needed or required after one experiences the thing the first time. In my case, remembering to pack more liquids for the hour ride each way, or some tie-down straps for the saddle bag frame.

An hour ride for about maybe 15km. It seems mostly uphill there, so of course it will be downhill coming back. It's just up the main road except to two places that you need to get off the road to get around a 2-3 foot deep pothole 25-30ft long filled with water. Easier for me to navigate than the cars, trucks and semi-trucks. All the bridges here are single lane. If any of them go out there is no way to get up to Antsirabe for a while. There's one bridge bad enough they are already building a new one.

The chapel is at the far north end of Manadona. I was the first to arrive as I learned Sacrament starts at ten and not at nine. Introduced myself to most who arrived until I got pulled into the branch President's office. I gave him my membership number and info so they could get my membership records. Everyone was very pleasant (no surprise there). I was able to communicate the basics but not much beyond that. One guy spoke with me in length who knows some English from his missionary days in South Africa. He says I have a good Malagasy accent - encouraging. I think I'll try and be more prepared next Sunday.

There is only two hours but I sat in on a meeting before church that I have no idea what it was. Leadership? New members? No idea. They said something at the beginning of sacrament meeting that I sensed was about me. People were turning in their chairs and looking at me. I'm the only foreigner and American in the branch. No missionaries. The songs had no musical accompaniment and the chorister would sing a bar first to give us an idea of how the tune goes. All the songs are very familiar but I can't seem to place them. The Malagasy songbooks don't help. But I could follow and sing along fine. And I seem to know how to pronounce many of the words.

I am not sure how to add to the ward just yet. I do have my Google Translate app and occasionally will compliment someone on their smile or friendliness and maybe that's all I will ever be able to do. IT reminds me so much of all the things I can and cannot do here. It's just a lot of small things.

I've made it a game to say "Salama" to everyone I can on the way to and back from church. I figure if I only say hello and acknowledge a million people these two years, I will have done something. A very small thing but something.

Back at the new place I added more paint to the table and started painting my one kitchen wall. It'll need another day and a couple more coats of paint. I am bothered that the "Mavo Mavo" yellow is looking a little hospital sickly and not vibrant bright yellow, but it'll do.  Maybe a third color like orange or green will be necessary to brighten up this place. I am tired of living out of boxes and bags but the shelves will come as I keep painting. 

Dobby is doing better and wanting to get out there and find and eat chicken bones - or at least I think they are chicken bones. I'm also finding my shoes moved around so I know he's starting that chewing phase. She loves the cheese wedges I bought for me but I think it is the closest thing to milk I have right now - though I did buy a cheap bottle and powdered milk we'll get around to trying. I got her in a bright yellow flea collar. I only need a quarter of its length. He's really not going to be a big dog by the looks of it.

Dobby Arrives

Tuesday, 16 May 2023 (92)

Left about 7:30 this morning for the 4.5 hour drive to Antsirabe. We stopped in Ambatolampy which is known for their metalwork and I picked up half a dozen pots and pans for cooking with. I still could possibly use a good non-stick pan for frying eggs and such.

Once we got to town I had them drop me off at the Green Park Hotel where I resided last time I was here. I am staying in the same room again.

Spent the afternoon wandering the streets of Antsirabe again. Was here three separate days during site visit. Got a little more of my bearing here but am tired of window shopping. There doesn't appear to be anything of value for me to get now. Done a whole lot of shopping for installation. Probably spent way more than 5 million ariary. The Peace Corps only provides us with 2 million for installation.

Sam is wanting to pass his dog off to me. He is doing the vegetarian thing and doesn't want to buy and cook meat for the dog. I'm worried as he rescued it off the street if it is healthy. We'll try and bring it to the vet tomorrow if he can get it here.

Wednesday, 17 May 2023 (93)

Very busy. 

We hit more than a half dozen medical and police /gendarme agencies to give them my credentials and info on the off chance my health or security is in danger. Arsen did all the talking. I found it interesting that we are so official in presenting the volunteers to every part of the government to insure good relations as well as good safety. We also got me a tour of the main pharmacy here as well as the higher level medical provider should I come here for any treatment before being kicked up to Tana.

Sam came in from several hours south of my town Sahanivotry with the dog which is now officially named Dobby. He's looking a little sickly and undernourished. We did get it to the vet and it's first of four shots. Need to try and get it back in two or three weeks for the next one. The vet says it doesn't have Parvo and the shot it got should help with that and a few other issues. But it looks like it let it's mother a little too soon of you ask me.

I bought a lot of stuff today both with and without my installers. A small table and two chairs for about 160,000. I negotiated them down to 140,000 but paid them the 160,000 anyways. My new philosophy - Negotiate for a better cost but pay them more anyway - everyone wins. Got a second smart phone so I can have Telma and Orange phone services. Got most of my buckets and plastic containers including a PO for indoor bathroom use - 30,000. A new smart phone for 180,000. 61,000 for the first dog shot. Three more will be necessary every couple weeks or so. Blue, yellow and white paint for 201,000. We'll see how far it goes but I suspect we'll need more. 160,000 for meals for Sam, me, the installers. 820,000 spent today or about $189. I honestly don't know how the Peace Corps volunteers could manage on the 2,000,000 total they are given for installation.

Sam wanted to get out and see some nightlife. Unfortunately, it is a Wednesday night and much doesn't begin until 9pm around here. He was out while Dobby and I retired, though didn't sleep till he got back around midnight.

Thursday, 18 May 2023 (94)

It has been a couple busy two days. This morning Arsen and Jones (my installers) came by to pick up my two bags. Took a taxibusse with Dobby in her box in a big rice bag. I just said I was going to hold on to it for the trip. No one questioned what was in it. He only tried to stick his head out a couple time and didn't even whimper. He's still doing more sleep than I'd like. 

Met up with the installers in Sahanivotry where they were already at work adding hardware to the three windows and a new lock on the door. They set up my gas tank and stove though I know how to use that. I was also impressed with the brand new hospital bed that the CSB had for me. The very small foam mattress (maybe two inches thick) needs a another one under it for comfort. They had seven or eight though they have seen better days. It's also about the smallest single I've seen. But the head can be propped up. I'm happy with it though Dobby is not going to be jumping up anytime soon.

Had a meeting with the village leaders (my host family - the mayor and his wife), others who work at the CSB, neighbors, shop keepers and those in the village who were available. They did all the talking while I did a short introduction of maybe five or six sentences. Trying to get off on the right foot here. Arsen, my installer did much of the talking for the Peace Corps and translated what they were saying for me. They just need to know what the Peace Corps is, what I'll be doing here, and how I'll need a little help learning the language and the town. 

Living here for two years is starting to settle on me as I went around the town to buy a few food items I never got in Antsirabe. There are only a handful of places to buy much and I probably hit up most of them. It was funny because I asked to buy vary (rice) and he laughed when he told me they have no vary. He explained that everyone has their own vary as they all grow it. There's no market in town needing to sell it. Maybe on market day on Tuesday. I can wait until then though I wasn't going to buy much anyway. Mostly as a food for Dobby.

I felt good talking with the people. Even with my limited Malagasy, I was able to introduce myself again and attempt to tell them I am here for the next two years. My tutor gets here in about 10 days for two weeks but I'll be studying an hour or two everyday as well.

Back to my house (trano) which is really just a room about 11ft 2 inches by 22 ft and 8 inches. Bigger than I had on the mountain but a little more rustic. Cement walls, hopefully not a leaky roof and I do have power so that is great. I'm actually very pleased with the place. I always knew I'd be fixing it up. I am a little upset that the very large table is no longer here. I asked about it (or a table and Dr. Clertant helped me get a different but small table.) I'll take it but could use yet another one. 

Friday, 19 May 2023 (95)

Waking up with the rest of the town. How anyone thinks its ok to play their favorite music loud at 6:30 in the morning -and I'm talking about people in town, playing it several hundred meters away across a rice field and then some. Worse than any roosters or even the church recordings played yesterday for the ascension of Mary (a holiday) at some ungodly hour in the morning.

Spent the day getting all I've collected and bought for installation organized. Going through all the bags and boxes I brought here - going from 100lbs of stuff brought from America to probably over 500lbs of stuff and a bicycle. Took the small kitchen table out to sand and refinish the tabletop but it is too far gone for that. And it doesn't want to sand smooth. Either the sandpaper is not so great or the wood they have here is harder and different than elsewhere. I asked the installers to bring me a few items when they came back today. It seems they had nothing more to do, so they only came to bring me those items. I think they are milking this installation for an extra day or two. 

They picked up 6 - 12ft planks that had to be cut in half being too long for the top of their vehicle. Some shelf brackets - but now I realize I'm going to need a dozen or more. And the mosquite screning material. They also got me some potatoes which I haven't seen around town. I'll likely have to wait till next Tuesday (market day), and some oil (which I can find in town), and a six pack of water, which I can also find in town at a worse price. And I'm not likely to be drinking a lot of it.

I want to run back to Antsirabe early tomorrow and get back here in time to spend the afternoon painting the ceiling and possibly more. Then perhaps some painting on Sunday and be ready to hit the town with Dr. Clertant on Monday.

I did get the sink very cleaned. It was a real nightmare and I had originally thought I might just need to replace it but I managed to get it into a good looking condition. I was hoping my host family Mayor was coming today to change out my main ceiling light but was a no show. Dr. Clertant and I called him and asked him to come tomorrow afternoon when I'm back from Antsirabe.

Dobby is coming around as well. Today, he was out and exploring the yard - trying to make friends with my supervisors cat, chickens and ducks without success. Not sure he has a sense of the world yet but it was good to see him walking about and not constantly sleeping.

Swearing-In

I am Peace Corps.

Monday, 15 May 2023 (91)

I was at the Peace Corps HQ office before 10am as asked. It is only a 10 minute walk from the medical hub. Brett and about 20 of the staff turned up for my individual swearing in. I did the US government swear-in:

I do solemnly swear that I will support and defend the Constitution of the United States against all enemies, foreign and domestic; that I will bear true faith and allegiance to the same; that I take this obligation freely, without any mental reservation or purpose of evasion; and that I will well and faithfully discharge the duties of the office on which I am about to enter.

and the Peace Corps one:

I promise to serve alongside the people of Madagascar. I promise to share my culture with an open heart and open mind. I promise to foster an understanding of the people of Madagascar, with creativity, cultural sensitivity, and respect. I will face the challenges of service with patience, humility, and determination. I will embrace the mission of world peace and friendship for as long as I serve and beyond. In the proud tradition of Peace Corps’ legacy, and in the spirit of the Peace Corps family past, present, and future - I am a Peace Corps Volunteer. 

Fortunately, I was not asked to do the Peace Corps swearing-in in Malagasy as my cohort had. And of course I captured it all on two cameras.

Afterwards Arsen and I discussed my installation. We'll be going to Antsirabe for a couple of days. I had hoped it would just be one but they have to introduce me to the local police as well as the pharmacy and hospital people. I guess I'll get a chance to purchase even more stuff.

As we had so much time today, I took a taxi well into the shopping district of Tana. Stopped in at the largest store where everyone on three floors are selling computers, computer parts and tech in one building. The plan is to build an editing computer here having some parts brought from the united states and some of the larger parts bought here (like the computer case and power supply. This all to happen at the end of June when Natalie comes out.

Back at the hub, I helped Arsen and our driver load the vehicle with my stuff. There's a lot of it. I came with 100lbs or stuff and heading to site with 300 or 400lbs. By the time the bike and furniture gets added we'll be close to 500 or 600lbs.

So my last night at the hub. I put a couple posts online to Facebook and LinkedIn to let everyone know I am official. That's actually a part of the job, interestingly. To share with the world my role in fostering friendship and understand between our two countries. To wage peace.

Getting to Know Tana

A popular way of transporting goods

Friday, 12 May 2023 (88)

With only a few hours of sleep, I was still ready to leave at 8 this morning. A taxi arrived and asked if I was with Doctor A. Sounded right though it was a surprise that they sent a taxi instead of a Peace Corps vehicle. So I loaded up my things. Then the driver said there were three others. They weren't Peace Corps and this taxi wasn't for me after all.

They did pick me up in a Peace Corps vehicle a half hour later. To the hub where I am the only guest. Have my choice of rooms. I choose the one with a balcony. Went for a little hike - 5 miles - as I went shopping for food for the weekend. I also encountered a few more big box type stores and found a few more things for site, including a hammer, some hardware and the elusive hole punch. It was a tiring walk back with a heavy pack including eggs and potatoes. It was also good to see yesterday and today what Tana actually has and where to find stuff if needed. Just like the states, they have things that can be had if you are willing to pay the price. I even found an antiques store that had used furniture. All of it had unbelievable high prices. I suppose much of it was custom made, one of a kind items and very sturdily built. Most still needs some refinishing if you ask me. Definitely not worth what they were asking for it. I'm currently thinking I may make some of my own furniture items. We'll see.

Had my first meal cooked by me in 3 months. Friten. Pomme frites of course. American style, with the skins on and cooked longer than the locals do. Unfortunately, they don't have all the necessities in their kitchen. I had to pull out my fry spoon and even spices as they don't even have salt here at the hub. This made me worry and wonder if I should buy just a few more items on the off chance I am not going to find it in Antsirabe. A good knife or two wouldn't hurt. More cookware or plates maybe.

Tomorrow will be another hike and another opportunity to see what's out there and what do I need or want. Certainly, I am still looking for those elusive size 11 (45-46 European) shoes. Not even stores that specialize in very expensive sports shoes ($500,000ar) have that size.

Natalie has flown to St. Louis to spend time with her father who is very sick in the hospital from a ruptured appendix that went very badly.

I here at the Hub all alone with just the guards to keep me company. A couple more days of rest - if you don't count the hikes.

Saturday, 13 May 2023 (89)

Day three of shopping along the main corridor just a few miles from the hub. I am now quite familiar with this neighborhood should I find myself back here down the road. Spend a few hundred thousand more on kitchen supplies as well as tools and hardware that I suspect I won't find in Antsirabe.

Sunday, 14 May 2023 (90)

I had the cab driver yesterday agree to me at the end of the driveway at 9am. Timing couldn't have been better as we both arrived at the same time. It was a 15 minute drive to the Tana ward. We had about 30 minutes before the sacrament meeting and I spent it out front with the missionaries. Two more missionaries had arrived just about when I had 12 weeks ago. I also met the mission president and gave him my phone number. I believe he is getting released in a couple weeks.

I met many of the members. I believe it was the first or second counselor conducting. He spoke french while the talks were given in Malagasy but I'm sure either would work. Songs were also mostly sung in French and one in Malagasy. The song books were in French.

I was very impressed with the missionaries - the one I met the other day as well as the few more I met today. One of the elders was the organist. His companion gave a talk in Malagasy as well as translated for a deaf member. Not only does those two missionaries know Malagasy but they also can sign it. Amazing.

Afterwards was priesthood with 22 elders. The lesson was on service. The instructor did most of the lecturing. I gather Malagasy people are not as outspoken and maybe that is why or how I probably contributed more than the rest of the class did combined. Fortunately, I had a translator come and sit next to me. I guess I can't pass up an opportunity to share.

I was quite taken emotionally from the spirit of it all. It's been more than three months since I was at a Sunday church meeting. It was good to enjoy the spirit regardless of understand much at all.
Walked most of the way back to the Hub. Took a cab for the last mile or so.

Made a large pot of noodles and cooked ground beef. It worries me how I will cook for one (two when I get a dog). It also worries me of getting a dog and not being able to take it back to the states. It didn't help that I saw a dog alongside the road dead this afternoon.

Next Steps

First Missionaries found in the Madagascar Wilds

Wednesday, 10 May 2023 (86)

Took a covid test this afternoon. At first I thought the T was for test and the C was for Covid but it was the other way around. Technically, I tested negative for Covid. The food is good here but I'm tired of ordering from french menus and I'm not trying anything new now. 

Medical staff is saying I will be moved to the HUB where there are two rooms but you have to do all your own cooking or go get food. The next step is finding someone to swear me in. Our country director is down with Covid and I not sure if his deputy is in town or if the ambassador could do it. It's looking like I may need to wait for Monday, get sworn in and then get installed on Tuesday.

Thursday, 11 May 2023 (87)

Email from Brett Coleman:

Re: Swearing you in!
Hi Rick,

I hope you are feeling OK as you wind down your isolation.  What are your plans to leave Tana and go to site?  Before you go, I need to swear you in!!  (Assuming no one else has done that yet.) 

That is slightly complicated by the fact that I too am isolating after testing positive on Monday.  But I’m assuming that two people in isolation don’t have to isolate from each other, so if you’re feeling fine, I could walk to the Akoa today or tomorrow and swear you in.

Let me know your plans so we can figure something out.

Thanks,

Brett E. Coleman, PhD MBA
Country Director | Madagascar

Responded Back:

They are moving me in the morning to the hub. I tested negative yesterday, Wednesday. But yes, we are waiting on swearing in. The plan was maybe swearing in on Monday and leave for site on Tuesday.

I can be available and we could do it from 10 feet away.  

Hope you are feeling better as well. 

Rick

The Doctor Makes House Calls

The offending test

Sunday, 7 May 2023 (83)

Feeling much better. Almost as good as I felt before Covid. Unfortunately, I am not getting enough sleep. I'm just not tired.

It has been a nice day. Went out by the pool and filmed some. I did an interview about my getting Covid. Then filmed it again. Then accidently deleted the audio files. Hopefully, I'll get some editing done in the next few days.

Being here has given me some time to think about what's to come and how to make the best of the new place. 

Monday, 8 May 2023 (84)

Shortly after I awoke there was a knock at the door. Peace Corps doctors make house calls (Doctor Tahiry does) or in this case resort hotel calls.  He took my vitals and of course my O2 levels were bad but better with a different O2 device. I feel better knowing that mine was a point or two too low when taken by a better quality one. He kept saying no one wants to send anyone home but I know differently. They would send me home in a heartbeat if I am not showing great health. Doctor A has said on many occasions - He is not our friend and our health is most important (not our desire to be here). So I reveal as much and as little as I need to walk the fine line being honest and being healthy. 

I know my body. I know what I consider healthy may not go over well with them. I know my diet. I know how little I drink water. I know how little I sleep. I know my lung capacity. I know I have the health of a 63 year old trying to pass for a 40 year old. I know there are likely reasons for me not to be here and yet I am.

Lunch and dinner with Sarah if you count 8ft apart at two different tables. 

Not such a bad place

Tuesday, 9 May 2023 (85)

I had hoped I would be negative with the Covid test this morning. Nope. Though my vitals are fine and I have just a slight head mist to remind me that I could be better.

Been doing everything but editing. I've downloaded music to use in the videos. Watched movies. Organized hard drives. And of course written here and in the blog. I did finished a video today. It was about the experience with Covid instead of swearing in. I wonder if people look at my videos and wonder why almost every one of them is so dramatic. 

It's odd to be documenting life rather than just letting it slide along and melt into one long memory. When something happens, I'm probably the only one who goes into screenwriting mode and wonders what shots would capture this best. An on camera interview? Some closeups, wide shots? Maybe try and get others to say the things so I don't have to? Perhaps, a specialty shot like time lapse, a unique angle, or lots of cut away b-roll shots?

And although I really do hope to get the camera off of me - for now, I am the channels' one and only character. A few passing volunteer or staff interviews spritz up the events along the way, but it is indeed my story and my adventure. I had hoped to include so many others but haven't been able to sell it. Perhaps, if the others were closer to my age, I could have gained their trust and shown them the possibilities. They never gave me much of a chance, and I doubt many will even find the channel. Perhaps, down the road when their service is over. Perhaps, then they will find it and either be very upset over my perspective, their exclusion, or be grateful that the process was documented - if only slightly.

There are other projects I am considering, once life in Sahanivotry becomes rote, and calm, predictable and slow. Such as - writing a book no one will read about my experience with the Peace Corps. I heard from Sarah, yesterday over dinner that a couple others have that in mind. Neither of the two she mentioned would thrill me with their perspectives. I'm afraid they wouldn't be kind to the Peace Corps. Their youthful rebellious views might be against much of what the Peace Corps stands for, came into existence for, and is not to their liking when it comes to how it's taught and enforced. The Peace Corps is not to the current youth's liking - or at least not to a few.

A surprising news item today. We heard that a staff member had gotten Covid and all the volunteers have been asked to test and turn in their results by Friday - earlier if they experience any symptoms. I wondered if it was my driver or someone else I had interacted with. Five minutes later the text comes from Brett, our country director - he's the one with Covid. And he spoke with, shook hands, hugged many, if not most, at the swearing-in ceremony. So I may not be the only one at all. I had spent just a few minutes talking with him last Thursday and mentioned that in my contact tracing conversation, but it wasn't a very long conversation - maybe five minutes.

This evening I finished my last dose of Paxlovid. I've taken the three pill mix twice a day for five days.

Covid / Swearing-In

Brett Coleman - Madagascar Country Director

Thursday, 4 May 2023 (80)

Our group had an impromptu meeting with the Peace Corps Managing Director for Africa this morning. He came in specifically for our swearing in and perhaps because he and Brett are both leaving the Peace Corps in just a couple months. 

There were some good questions asked. I asked for his opinion or philosophy on measuring success as a volunteer. He wants us to remember that two out of the three missions of the Peace Corps are good relations between our countries. So all that we do, including grabbing a drink, or having a conversation with the locals is fostering our jobs. No other job in the US government and many NGO's have such wide and unique parameters. We may not be the health heroes of the world, but we can be friends, and make friends - this is what may truly bring more understanding and peace to the world.

Later, I had the chance to speak with him further about the complication between the younger and older volunteers - how we can often feel bullied or silenced - overpowered by 20 to 1 young viewpoints and standing as a lone perspective. It isn't easy to remain silent but that is the safest to avoid being canceled - though that is exactly what has happened to me.

Our country Director Brett joined the conversation and he again expressed thanks for my having stood with him and the Peace Corps all those weeks ago. But it was a severe price to pay as I lost all respect from half the group. Just last night they still referred to Brett and his actions as a "abuse of power" as they misinterpreted his motives and his choices at the time. Again I stood up for his decisions and that did not go over well.

I know if Natalie was here, she would win over all these volunteer hearts, and be a mother and confidant to all. No one would think her out of date, too conservative, or cancel her. They would welcome her as their own family. I have told several people here that and although they doubt it - I know better. She has a knack for saying the right thing and loving that I do not.

Then I was asked to meet with Amanda and two other staff members. Here it comes, I thought. I had seen one of the volunteers from last night talking with Amanda and expected the worse. I had hoped this close to swearing in, no new dramas would be necessary. I suspected I had hurt someone's feelings and now I would be censored, or counseled, or worse.

As soon as I sat down, I said, "Is this about what happened last night?" Oops - it wasn't. I quickly tried to back pedal and mentioned how some of us didn't like the cow tongue entrée. That didn't fly. 

Instead, we first talked about me getting a tutor at site, and how one of the LCF's would be asked to spend two more weeks with me at site - just as soon as they could find them some lodging. "Who would you like?", they asked. There was really only one person I would prefer. Instead, I named someone who wasn't a good fit and casually said I would be happy with anyone else at their discretion. I really wanted to be humble and insistent I was onboard with improving my language and having a tutor. I did tell them, my first choice…of course would be…Rindra.

Then came the other discussion. I tried to insist that at this point on the last day before swearing in, I didn't want to add any more drama, or throw anyone under the bus. She insisted she would find out anyway. I believed her. I knew it was probably smart to give my impression before I ended up having to defend it instead. I tried to just say there was some differences of opinions. I emphasized those who were wonderful allies and a couple who were easily offended. I mentioned only one name when she again insisted she would find out anyway. I figured she already knew.

That was pretty much it. No one needed be counseled. I wasn't offended or insulted or had any hard feelings. I just chalk it up to youthful ideals and differences clashing against older ones. And it isn't that we differ so much as we differ in expressing those ideas perhaps. My word choices don't always get interpreted properly to people who already have you pegged for an out of touch senior.

The rest of the day was spent in training with our site supervisors. They are taught the Peace Corps program and how they can help and teach us - what they can use us for, how they can assist us - as we become medical ambassadors to their town.

I wasn't feeling well and thought it was because I didn't get much sleep last night (maybe 3 hours). I thought it had to do with my caffein intake having finished off a full two liter of Pepsi (a rarity, but still to be found if you don't mind paying twice as much than other sodas). I haven't had much caffeine at all for these last 12 weeks.

I texted to the training supervisor I felt I had a fever and needed to lie down. 40 minutes later I got a text, my supervisor was looking for me. Supervisors and Volunteers were working through some medical goals for the next year. I had a fever and someone got me a mask. Dr. Clertant and I also planned to leave at 5am on Saturday morning.

This evening - the last night before swearing in - I doubt anyone wanted to experiment with the hotel served dinner. Only those penny pinching ariary and getting another meal for free would experiment this evening. We had been told to try and spend meal times with our supervisors but they were more interested in being at a table with their fellow doctors and talking shop - rather than toying with the new volunteer with just a grasp of the language.

A few went off in their cliques. Others were looking for dinner companions and weren't finding any. One of the guys called me if I had any plans. I wasn't feeling well but decided to get out, get some fresh air, and support someone not always picked first. 

We went down the hill past the Mormon church (yes, it's spire can be seen out the dining room window.) Ordered chicken for a change along with pomme frites. Avoided the milk shake, which is just a cold chocolate milk. Then stopped for ice cream cones and back to our rooms. 

Peace Corps Swearing-In

Friday, 5 May 2023 (81)

I had been taking ibuprofen all yesterday and hoped to wake up with no symptoms. Sam had a Covid test handy and I figured I'd chance it. Within 30 seconds the second line appeared and I knew I would not Swear-In today.

I can't say I was sad. I guess I just immediately accepted the fact that life is full of surprises. This is to become yet another story to tell. My greatest concern was that some of the others might think I wasn't invited to swear-in. My pride did not want that to happen. This old man made it through the 12 weeks just as all others (minus 3). 

I texted and called medical. Just an hour before the ceremony, they needed to know who I had 15 minutes or more contact within 6 feet in the last 48 hours. It was a small list of only four. All tested negative but have been asked to wear masks for some days.

I watched the ceremony broadcast live. What bothered me most was the terrible unmonitored wide shot and camera angle. When they swore in I too stood, raised my right hand and swore allegiance to the government, the constitution and the Peace Corps. I knew it wasn't official and didn't really count but I still felt I was there and a part. I suspect they will end up swearing me in later, so I've been told.

They moved me to the Akoa hotel - the best place I've lodged at in Madagascar. Had a Chicken sandwich and frietes for lunch and a big rib and frietes for dinner. There's a pool here. I'd rate this a 3-4 star hotel on the Madagascar scale.

Struggling with my O2 levels this evening. I'll check them again often as we go into the night. Dash is concerned. Medical staff has instructions for me to call if O2 gets and stay at 94 or below. Going to the hospital for oxygen is the next step but I know my O2 levels are normally low and I struggle to get it more than 95 on a good day. The next step would be to get evacuated to South Africa where there are ventilators and better care. That would be a death sentence for me serving here.

End of Training

Dobbie's ready to leave

Saturday, 29 April 2023 (75)

A class on cooking. Nothing new here. I've had a few years of cooking for myself. I won't be starving. Nothing to microwave here so I doubt that will be on my shopping list.
 
I did finally hear about my last LPI - I passed. I'll take it and move on. At least I met the requirement they would like me to have. 

Monday, 1 May 2023 (77)

Last day at PC Camp. Most are packing their bags. We all seem to have collected a few new items. We may have started with 100lbs and a carry-on or two but we now all seem to have at least a third bag. The Peace Corp gave us a few items as well like a large med kit, a few manuals and dictionary. And most have bought a few items along these 11 weeks. A few even have plants - which I think I would have waited until I got to site. Not sure I'd be thrilled about transporting dirt around. One of our soon-to-be-volunteers even just picked up a new kitten from their host family or neighbor. She's fortunate that the Peace Corps is letting her have it. We were told that we had to wait until swearing in before any animals were gotten but I don't suppose the week before is prohibited.

Fortunately, we are inheriting our foot lockers that were at our host families and of course our water filtration units. I was able to put most of my third bag items in it including the solar panels and the new desk lamp I purchased.

Suddenly, we all seem to realize PC Camp might be the fastest internet we'll see in a while and a few of us have downloaded a few steam games to play onsite and offline if we have time - which we all get the impression we will.

Relay bike race participants

Tuesday, 2 May 2023 (78)

We left camp behind at 8:30 this morning. I doubt anyone is sad to leave - a few host families perhaps, but it has been a long 11 weeks and we're all for this next step.

We arrived fairly quickly. I think I napped a bit. Arrived for a tour of Peace Corps Headquarters. It was interesting to see all the staff dressed up in business attire and in their offices. The place looks like a typical office in American with just a few difference. It's located in a very secure area in a very nice neighborhood. There are high walls, razor wire and many security personnel. A police depot is just down the street. They run a mirror under the vehicles to check for bombs as we are always going to be a possible target for terrorists and people who don't like us in foreign countries.

Amanda wanted to see me after we left her office. Fortunately, it was just to congratulate me on getting through training and bringing my language skill up. We then had lunch at Amanda's house just a few doors down. It was a very nice and very big house - again with the walls, wire and a servant. Afterwards, we went in groups to the HUB which is a few blocks away and where the medical people are. There's also two dorm rooms we might stay at if we get called in to Tana for health or other reasons.

My group of four or five was last and I had my weight taken (208lbs) more than I hoped for and my blood pressure taken (137/79) which I didn't think was bad but she retook it after a few minutes on my other arm. Our nurse practitioner thinks I get anxious around doctors and it raises my blood pressure. I'm thrilled they think that's the issue and not just I am having high blood pressure lately. It is down from the beginning of training and normally is close to 120/80 - but not of late. I haven't been hydrating enough and generally I just think I'm at a different place health wise at my age. They also want to wait six months for a blood draw to test me again on the pre-diabetic issue.

We had the usual discussion about eating balanced and nutritious meals. I didn't comment on that. I know the reality of my diet. It got me here and had better keep me here. More fruits and organic foods, less treats, processed foods and soda. All not too hard to work on but eating new vegetables - it isn't going to happen! Not unless they start tasting better. My body is not in prime condition, obviously - but I am here.

Eventually, we headed to the Panorama Hotel where we'll be staying until we leave on Saturday to our banking towns. The view is spectacular - overlooking the city below us. The internet is fast and it is one of the better hotels for Madagascar - but nothing to write home about.

Samson and I are rooming together. We're friends, compatible and we keep each other's secrets. He has one item on his shopping list that is a must have - weights. The problem is the cost $1,800,000ar (about $415US). He doesn't have it and he's asked me to loan it to him until he can tap into his Peace Corp money a couple weeks after swearing in. Natalie's not thrilled but I am doing it anyway. I pulled out more than 2 million from the ATM and handed it over. I'll try and spend less and get by if need be.

We headed out for dinner at a burger place before our free dinner at the hotel. It was great. Much better than the rice and meat for dinner. Of course I skipped the rice. Desert was a chocolate éclair.

Hotel balcony view

Wednesday, 3 May 2023 (79)

Shopping day. After a few surprises with the schedule that had the LCF's waiting two hours having not been told that we were in an impromptu meeting with a previous Madagascar volunteer from 1999. She now lives here and works for CRS - Catholic Relief Services. Some good advice but at the expense of our shopping time.

We finally get to the Jumbo shopping center and were told this would be our only stop. I had been here before and knew what to expect and perhaps that was fine because I knew exactly what I wanted and where to find it. But my installer wasn't here and I had no idea where to put things after I bought them. This is where much confusion began because they had no way of marking who's stuff was who's. And then there were things we were told we could get but only if they were to be found at this one shopping mall. Not exactly what we were promised.

Most were upset but shopping for a couple hours seemed to temper that. Samson and I spent probably more than most. The Peace Corps is giving us 2,000,000ar for items to get our house up. Samson and I spent somewhere over 2,700,000ar and we still need some basics we'll have to get in our banking towns. I expect I'll be spending another million on paint, a new table, and lots of buckets and pots and pans, and kitchen items still.

Today, I bought my wish list items which were a very modern overhead light fixture, a table fan, and lots of tools (or at least the basic ones - hammer, saw, pliers, screwdrivers, sandpaper, paint brushes, gloves, tarps, nails) I know for a certainty I'll need. I also bought a two burner stove top that cost 100,000ar more than the metal top ones everyone else was buying. Mine has a glass top and will clean easier and look nicer over time. I also bought many items to keep with my blue and yellow theme I'll be painting in the new place.

Everyone has their priorities. I saw many with two pillows, some with expensive containers, others with good non-stick pans and a few with heavy quilts and blankets. I wouldn't want to hand wash those - they may never dry. I even saw a dart board someone bought, so people are thinking out of the box to keep entertained, warm and sane.

I had hoped to buy a nice "Ikea-like" desk but the store people said they would have to deliver it. That will have to wait for Antsirabe. I didn't get another pair of shoes and we weren't allowed to shop elsewhere. I was in a bad mood because the Peace Corps didn't deliver on what they promised and had bad organization throughout the day. No one had markers or tape to label the many similar item until I and others pushed back in the chat. They said they'd get it all figured out at the hub where our piles are waiting for the installers to load up with and take to our sites on Monday. But many items needed us to locate as they were not marked, or in my case, was marked but no one saw it written in pen - having no markers. I bought a marker and tape to solve the problem for a few of us. Cyrus also took charge as no staff members seemed to be communicating to us in "WhatsApp" or in person. No LCF seemed to know what the bosses had in mind - or at least no one passed those instructions down to us. This is often typical here. We either get overly instructed or under instructed. And a few trainees text comments in the chat like "Am I allowed to spend my own money on food?" Did they really need that answered and what if they didn't like the answer? Sometimes if I wonder if they will ever survive the wilds of their site.

Back to the hotel. Samson and I had eaten recently and thought to brave the hotel dinner. That was a mistake. They served the normal abundance of rice and meat, which was cow tongue. Some of it wasn't too bad but some green looking pieces no one wanted to eat. And desert this time was a bad fruit cup.

Then unfortunately, I sat too long at my table and committed social suicide with a statement I made. Just saying "Social Suicide" elicited comments from my very hip, young and woke comrades. Comments about how they felt over just the use of that phrase. To go into any more detail would only offend people reading this perhaps.

I tried to explain how I feel outnumbered with 20+ young people in this cohort and me alone at 63. They have their youthful experience in the world thus far and are following a path different from mine. We indeed have different perspectives, experiences and thoughts about the world - its problems, causes, issues and how to solve or deal with such. I asked them to think of themselves in a reverse group of 60 year olds and if they would feel their opinions and ideas were truly understood or appreciated. Perhaps, like me they would feel stifled, or become a little more quieter knowing they were outnumbered by the others - and their supposed truths about the world. Instead, one of my not too favorite trainees got up and said "He always does this" and abruptly left. No one addressed that outburst. Either because they support her view or know of her instability and bi-polar mentality.

I could see no understanding would improve. Only two of the seven were in a slight agreement with me. I tried to apologize if anyone took offence but was told not to apologize. It's like I can't even do that without being in the wrong. I'm obviously an old person who needs to see the world through 20 something eyes. Been there - done that. I obviously don't want to get strong in my defense - or bring up any hypocrisies I see in their immaturities, lack of respect, foul language, immorality, drinking to excess and being a bad example for the Peace Corps enough that future cohorts may have to be dry for the entire 12 weeks. They have all the answers and I have none - so it seems. My roommate doesn't know why I even try.

I don't suppose any of them will find, or try and find this blog - let alone read it. I've purposely left off names to conceal identities. But if they did - I would stand by my opinions and would love to argue the facts in a public and fair fight - not one where my opinions are bullied, or silenced by the group consensus that I am wrong and they are right. I'm saying - perhaps we are both right and both wrong on many issues. I just want to be able to have the right to a different opinion. 

And I'd like to see the future - when they are my age. Will they encounter similar treatment at the hands of their betters - the youth? Will their long lives and lifetime experience count for much, or just get discounted by the wiser and smarter 25 year olds of that day?